Ceviche 105 off to a fresh start in South Beach

The who: Industrious chef-owner Juan Chipoco opens a South Beach outpost of his popular downtown Peruvian spot, on the western end of Lincoln Road.

The space: The former Kim’s Chinese has been transformed into a modern, airy dining room with white booths, colorful Peruvian fabrics and a striking porcelain fish chandelier. There’s a busy ceviche bar here, as well as a semi-open kitchen for plenty of culinary theater.

The dishes: Peruvian with an emphasis on seafood. Ceviche is the focus of the epic and somewhat confusing menu (take a Peruvian with you or ask the server for guidance), but tiraditos, anticuchos and “Peruvian sushi” also hold court. Prices are reasonable: small plates $7-$14, mains in the $20s.

Tiraditos are laid out on long white plates with an elegant, Mondrian-like precision, and causas — mashed-potato cones — are topped with crab or fish and dressed with colorful rocoto pepper sauce. Peruvian home cooking is also available with dishes like lomo saltado: sliced beef with onions, peppers and fries, or arroz con pollo.

The Bottom Line: An energetic Peruvian diner, this South Beach hotspot serves updated takes on native fare.

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