Brad Kilgore wants to alter your perceptions at Alter

Alter photo by Giovanny Gutierrez / ChatChow

The who: Chef Brad Kilgore (he of the four-star review at J & G Grill) strikes out on his own with the help of investors Javier Ramirez and Leo Monterrey.

The space: An industrial-looking 30-seater in Wywnood with polished cement floors, a wall-size mural by artist Me She designed to look like aged concrete, tables made from reclaimed wood sourced in Wisconsin and a gleaming open kitchen.

The chef’s table: A four-seat counter at the open kitchen where Kilgore will provide guests with multicourse tasting menus that can only be booked through the app Table8.

The dishes: Eclectic American. “We want to alter your perception of traditional dishes,” Kilgore explained. So expect plenty of influences ranging from Peruvian to Asian to Southern. The concise menu lists seven small plates and seven mains. Prices range $8-$15 for starters and $21-$30 for mains.

The housemade bread is crusted with sumac, dill and poppy seeds and accompanied by an oval of umami butter. A “soft egg” dish is a play on onion soup gratinee with the creamy egg and truffle pearls crowned with a crisp gruyere chip. Beet a l’orange salad is composed of honeycomb miso, purple carrot, local cheese and tangerine while the crispy blue crab has heat from an aji amarillo sauce and culantro relish. Larger dishes include Cape Canaveral prawns with tajin crust, local grits, mole verde, pickled chile and huitlaoche and a pompano with charred avocado butter, small onions and sprouted grains.

Desserts are as composed as the rest of the menu with offerings like the parsnip fudge with coconut sorbet, olive oil caramel, parsnip crisps and thyme and the peaches with white chocolate confit, banana bread, pretzel ice cream and brown butter.

Bottom line: Chef Brad Kilgore is back in the kitchen, but this time it’s in Wynwood’s artsy setting with a more intimate space and lower price point.