Bin 595***

Chef Adrian Deacon has spent years crafting a bold menu at elegant Bin 595, an easy-to-miss fine-dining destination in Plantation’s Renaissance Hotel. He’s not afraid to add chocolate to goat cheese atop wild mushroom ravioli or serve a vodka-braised Maine lobster. In a meat and potatoes town, his spuds are a mascarpone cheese potato puree with black truffles. Originally from Jamaica, Deacon melds Caribbean, Latin and American cuisine. The mix, while not always successful, can be memorable.

Ambiance: Expect a classy experience. The dining room has a cozy wine bar, aqua and red circular banquettes, dark wood, colorful lights and large pillars that divide the 170-seat space. Staff is excellent, well-trained, accommodating and gracious.

What Worked

  • Delicious crab chowder packed with jumbo lump crab, corn, a hint of allspice and brandy
  • Rich, soul-satisfying conch chowder with aromatic spices, fiery scotch bonnet pepper, Bahamian conch, potatoes and a tostone
  • Griddle cake, with roasted corn, crab and lobster
  • Scallops and prawns rubbed in island spices, grilled on sugar cane skewers and served with a pineapple guava sauce and risotto
  • Plump wild mushroom ravioli simmered with asparagus, baby spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, baby leeks and roasted fava beans
  • Juicy, nicely grilled New York strip
  • Moist, flaky pan-seared yellowtail snapper dusted with spices and paired with coconut curry basmati rice with a pineapple ginger beurre blanc sauce
  • Dulce de leche-banana spring rolls with coconut gelato in an almond tuille basket

 

What Didn’t Work

  • Wild king salmon was a little well-done and lacked pizzazz


Bin 595 Eclectic Grille and Wine Bar at the Renaissance Hotel
: 1230 S. Pine Island Rd., Plantation. 954-472-2252;
Hours:Breakfast 6:30-11 a.m., lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m., lounge menu 2-5 p.m., dinner 5-10 p.m. daily. Bar open to midnight (with bar menu). Prices: Starters $8-$16, entrees $21-$38, sides $8, desserts $8, breakfast buffet $15.95.

FYI: Full bar; corkage fee $15. Free parking. AX, DN, DS, MC, VS.

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