Beefed-up seafood menu at Steak 954

If you believe the true test of a steakhouse kitchen is how well they put out a piece of fish, then head to Steak 954 at the W Fort Lauderale. Stephen Starr’s award-winning Fort Lauderdale hotspot recently expanded its steak-centric menu to include a variety of fresh fish and seafood.

The tide change includes Wahoo with Thai Basil Broth, Cucumber and Watercress Salad, Grouper with Grapefruit Vinaigrette and Pea Shoots, Organic Salmon with Charred Lemon Relish and Soft Herbs, Swordfish with Smoked Corn Salsa and Corn Broth, Branzino with Capers, Picholine Olives and Marcona Almonds and Miso-glazed Black Cod with Maitake Mushrooms and Baby Bok Choy.

At a recent dinner, chef Jason Smith churned out these wildly fresh compositions alongside long-standing favorites of bigeye tuna and foie gras tacos, beet salad and addictive homemade tater tots. The Thai basil broth that surrounded the wahoo created a subtle base for the meaty fish which was lightyl seared while the cucumber and watercress salad provided a nice bittery green bite to complement the fish. Once can never go wrong with miso-glazed black cod and here it was buttery, sticky and umami-tastic. Sides like truffle mac and cheese add a bit of gluttony.

Good to see a steakhouse chef take the seafood side of the menu as seriously as his chops. With his beachfront locale, it just makes sense for Smith to empahsize the fruits of the sea.