The goods: Miami’s gourmet kitsch master Barton G. Weiss gives his namesake restaurant a posh makeover and adds a slew of prop-filled dishes. Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Barton G still offers an elegant night out in an off-the-beaten-path spot on West Avenue.
Ambience: Orchids in test tubes frame the entrance, and glass-flower chandeliers festoon the bar where patrons sip nitrogen cocktails oozing smoke. The cozy dining room is newly adorned with flower-petal curtains, iPad menus and an iPhone app with menus, photos and reservation info. Plans are in the works for an outdoor rose bar.
The grub: Inventive American. Dishes are massive and massively accessorized, and prices remain steep. Nitrogen cocktails can be had for $30, starters are $14-$24, mains $24-$53 and desserts $29-$145 (designed to feed a table of ten). New starters include the chicken and the egg, a basket of crispy chicken lollipops and a trio of deviled eggs, and the blue plate special, a blue cheese-stuffed waffle with a salad dressed with cranberries and walnuts. Entrees include lamb shank served in a silver Swarovski crystal-studded dog bowl, short ribs and steak fries accompanied by a giant jug of Heinz ketchup and swordfish proffered on a two-foot-long scabbard.
Desserts are equally outrageous. The chocolate treasure is a fudge cake presented in a treasure box and topped with coconut ice cream, while the more subdued apple cobbler is nestled in an oversized apple basket.
Verdict: Miami’s gourmet kitsch master revamps his show.