The goods: Hell’s Kitchen alum Ralph Pagano (STK) opens Alba, a seaside tratorria in Sunny Isles Beach.
Ambience: The fourth-floor dining room has floor-to-ceiling windows, dark wood floors and cork walls accented by antique chandeliers, photos of Sophia Loren and quotes from Goodfellas and A Bronx Tale.
The grub: Italian-American favorites. Portions are large and prices are reasonable, with most starters $14, mains $21-$34 and sides $7.
Dinner starts with herbed Italian bread and caponata. Starters include oysters, shrimp, crab cocktail, Waygu beef sliders with black truffle aioli and tuna tartare with spicy mayo and avocado puree. Papardelle with duck confit and orchiette with fennel sausage feature house-made pasta. Pizzas include margarita and “Mr Tang,” with duck, goat cheese and hoisin sauce. Mains include mahi mahi fra diavolo, steaks and chicken scarpariello “Vinny D style” with sausage, mushrooms and cherry peppers. Classic afogato and house-made donuts make for a sweet ending.
Verdict: An oceanfront Italian spot with Godfather swagger.