The who: Those prolific Pubbelly Boys are at it again, this time with a downtown spot, PB Station, that aims to attract the business crowd.
The space: Housed in the swanky Langford Hotel (a renovated former bank), the space still retains its Beaux-Arts charm by evoking train stations with white and black subway tiles, a soaring ceiling and low-but-flattering lighting.
The dishes: Modern American with Latin influences. Executive Jose Mendin riffs on American steakhouse classics like raw bar, steaks and chops but with a creative Latin spin. Prices are in keeping with the white-collar atmosphere with starters $10-$20 and mains $19-$48.
Bread service here is homemade biscuits with miso butter, then it’s on to seafood charcuterie of smoke salmon rillettes, rock shrimp mortadella and yellowtail ceviche taquitos. A dish of short rib dumplings submerged in onion soup gratinee is a rich starter while a carpaccio milanesa melds the Argentine preparation with the raw beef. Mains include Colorado lamb chops, baby chicken, short rib steak and a swordfish in a beurre blanc sauce.
A bread pudding inspired by apple pie rounds out desserts, which also include a cross between a flan and arroz con leche ice cream.
Bottom line: A sophisticated white tablecloth spot from the Pubbelly crew that merges American staples with creative Latin influences.