A Fork in the Road: Lynn’s Bahamian Kitchen

Clockwise from the back, guava duff, fried chicken, conch fritters, conch salad and fried snapper with rice and peas, mac and cheese and coleslaw at Lynn's Bahamian Kitchen, West Park.

Hard work and good food run in the Dorsett family. They run Lynn’s Bahamian Kitchen in West Park, where a video plays island scenes to the syncopated rhythms of goombay (from the African drum gombey).

Conch is served cracked — scored, battered and fried — and “bruised” — stewed in brown sauce or steamed in red gravy — and there are also conch salad and fritters. All together 150 pounds of the mollusk meat is used over a weekend. The conch is fresh frozen in the Bahamas and never held more than a month.

The patriarch, Thomas Dorsett, hangs out in the 4-month-old space decorated with a few junkanoo headpieces. Sons Tony, Bernard and Mark help run Lynn’s with their wives in memory of their mother Lynn, who died 10 years ago. All have day jobs but come in after work and on weekends to help. Grandsons Travis and Deshaun also pitch in.

Fill your belly in the morning and satisfy your soul with boil’ fish, a bowl of soup anchored by a grouper steak in light broth sparked with lime juice, bell peppers and thin potato slices accompanied by a slab of johnnycake (a lighter-crumbed cousin to corn bread) and grits. “Snacks” make a meal, accompanied by fries or salad and goombay punch (pineapple soda). Chicken-in-a-bag brings a joint of crispy fried chicken. Crack lobster is a take on the conch version made with spiny “crawfish.”

Dinners range from stewed oxtail to conch and rice with a choice of two sides (slaw, potato salad, green beans, sweet corn). A fried seafood platter brims with shrimp, snapper and conch served with peas ‘n’ rice. Souse is a sort of soup made with chicken, pork feet or beef tongue and veggies, said to be revitalizing. Guava duff is a take on English plum pudding, with the duff, or dough, steamed jellyroll-style with guava paste and served in brandy-spiked hard sauce. Lynn’s recipes live on, cooked with love.


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