2.5 stars for French eats at Bistro 1902 in Hollywood

AT YOUR SERVICE: Waiter Maurice Drigues presents Bistro 1902’s sea scallops with caramel-citrus sauce.CHARLES TRAINOR JR/MIAMI HERALD STAFF

Walking along Hollywood Boulevard is a globetrotting experience. In a few downtown blocks we passed Chinese, Greek, Italian, Irish, Latin, Mexican, Thai and Turkish restaurants, encountering belly dancers, hookah smokers and a reggae band. Bringing a French accent to the diverse lineup is 6-month-old Bistro 1902 (formerly Beef Eater) from Parisian transplant Mariane Marzo.

The executive chef is Xavier Marchand, whose 25 years of experience include Le Jules Verne at the Eiffel Tower. The menu features French classics like beef bourguignon, escargot and foie gras poêlé plus generic standards like skirt steak, chicken carbonara pasta and Caprese salad.

Ambience: French music plays in the background at the cozy, brick-walled restaurant, which has 90 seats inside and 18 on the patio (great for people watching). A large bottle of water, constantly replenished, on each table means no waiting for refills.

What Worked

  • Complimentary baguette slices with house-made olive butter s
  • Mussels marinière with sea-salty, white wine broth
  • French onion soup flavored with herbs de Provence and topped with a lovely crust of Gruyère baked to a perfect, bubbly, golden brown
  • Delectable slices of fresh duck foie gras deglazed with raspberry vinegar and served with sliced pears poached in red wine with a hint of cinnamon
  • Escargot in a parsley butter and garlic sauce,
  • Baked brie wrapped in a thin sheet of pastry with sliced apples then drizzled with a white truffle oil-balsamic glaze
  • Duck confit – a leg smothered in rich porcini cream sauce
  • Hearty ratatouille
  • Tomato Provençale – half a tomato garnished with bread crumbs, garlic and parsley
  • Very good shrimp and pan-seared scallops
  • Boeuf bourguigno, braised for four hours in a red wine sauce and served with carrots and onions over tagliatelle pasta
  • Duck roasted pear burger
  • Scallops and shrimp shrimp
  • A juicy beef burger with a splash of black truffle oil and a layer of brie, served with fries
  •  Delicious crème brûlée with a perfectly brittle caramelized crust
  • Silky chocolate mousse
  • Gracious & helpful servers

What Didn’t Work

  • Dry tuna steak
  • Bland mahi mahi, chopped and mixed with a so-so mango salsa


More Information

  • Bistro 1902
    1902 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood

  • Hours: 5-11pm Monday, 11am-11pm Tuesday-Thursday, 11am-midnight Friday-Saturday, 10am-11pm Sunday (brunch 11am-4pm)
    Prices: Appetizers $5.95-$15.95, entrees $14.95-$27.95, desserts $4.95-$7.95. Tasting menu $44.95.

  • FYI: Live music Friday night. Beer and wine; corkage $10. AX, DS, MC, VS