Miami Beach Caffé brings fine dining to Ocean Drive

Sara Liss7/19/2012

The goods: Prague restaurateur Tomas Johanovsky aims to bring fine dining to Ocean Drive with Miami Beach Caffe, a French-inspired spot on the north end of the touristy strip.

Ambience: The mod interior blends white-on-white, shell-shaped chairs, teardrop crystal chandeliers and wall-mounted iPads. There’s ample indoor seating and a glossy bar that specializes in European cocktails like prosecco with strawberry “ravioli,” a nod to molecular gastronomy.

The grub:  Elaborately presented, globetrotting fare by Czech Republic-born executive chef Ludek Munzar. Prices suit the high-end vibe: starters $14-$16, mains $27-$36. Complimentary bread service arrives with marinara dipping sauce and herbed crème fraiche. The Caprese salad (pictured) blends fresh buffalo mozzarella, tomato tartare, sprouts and balsamic vinegar reduction, while the tuna tartare is plated with mango puree and wasabi biscuits. Mains include grilled tuna, smoky bacon lasagna and braised beef cheeks in a cauliflower puree.

Dessert includes a bit of tableside kitchen theater with strawberry, dark chocolate and Bailey’s ice cream plus liquid nitrogen.

Verdict: A fancy newcomer brings European talent to Ocean Drive.