Mia at Biscayne
Bold, confident, sometimes gimmicky flavors in Downtown Miami - while they last
Mia at Biscayne
20 Biscayne Blvd, Miami
Hours: 11:30am-2am; later on weekends.
Prices: Snacks $8-$14, small plates $6-$16, shareable entrees $12-$35,
sides $6, desserts $9.
FYI: Full bar; corkage $15. Half-priced cocktails 4-8pm weekdays. Live music or DJ most weekends. More than 150 wines by the bottle, 20 by the glass. Valet (various prices) and metered street parking. AX, DN, DS, MC, VS.
Mia at Biscayne promises “a full visual and palate-pleasing experience that will provoke social intimacy and conversation.” Chef Gerdy Rodriguez (Red Fish Grill, Café Sambal, Abokado and others) spans tropical, Latin, Mediterranean and Japanese flavors in his melting pot menu that includes bread pizzettes, Peruvian-style pinchos, ceviches, smoked salmon bagel rolls, gazpacho and the inevitable Kobe sliders. Like the chef himself, Rodriguez’s cooking is bold and confident, clean and sometimes gimmicky. While it lasts, Mia is worth a shot for a fun night out and ... if you skip the cutesy offerings ... some tasty surprises on the plate.
Ambiance: Billed as a 14,000-square-foot “concept restaurant,” Mia at Biscayne includes a club, lounge, sidewalk café and cozy, velvety dining area on the ground floor of a bleak condo tower.
- A platter of six gooey, golden, bechamel-rich balls of ham croquetas dabbed with a bit of cream and a tiny round of chive
- Shimmery grouper tiradito accented with a thread of lemon and a bit of Kalamata olive tapenade
- Restrained salads with bright baby greens, raspberries, toasted almond slivers and a sherry vinaigrette
- Heirloom tomato salad with razor-sharp arugula and a sweet onion dressing
- Simple, smoky arroz con mariscos with hunks of tender calamari and delicate snapper
- Cracker-like flatbreads with a salty smattering of fantastic Serrano ham, a garlicky dash of celery salad and loads of fresh herbs
- Puffy mini doughnuts evoking sugar-dusted churros
What Didn’t Work
- A brazen, flat tortilla espanola nueva
- Flabby “crisp” shallots wearing a ring of baked-on brown goo served with a watery egg
- Impossibly blah, indulgent-sounding “breakfast” of deep-fried egg yolks, pork belly confit and potato puree
- Unfortunate Miami service issues - disappearing waitresses, clueless food runners, over-eager bussers and cartoon-character bouncers
- Review: Tom Colicchio's Beachcraft shows potential in Miami Beach
- Review: Mezzes dominate but don't dazzle at Cleo in South Beach
- Review: Fornaro's Italian food by way of Brazil is hearty but not subtle
- Review: The queen retains her crown with new Cena by Michy
- Review: Fooq's takes the edge off in downtown Miami
- Review: Piripi in Coral Gables wobbles on its road to tipsiness
- Review: Stick with sushi and small plates at Soho Bay in South Beach
- Memorable views, mostly forgettable food at Fresh American Bistro
- In Miami Beach, Klima's exquisite food is a study in simplicity
- Falling in love with Coya, Miami's Peruvian queen