Many Mediterranean restaurants rely on Italian food to bring in business, but at Mazza there are only two pastas and no falling back on pizza. Lebanese and Greek fare dominate the intriguing menu at the Pembroke Pines restaurant west of Interstate 75.

Diners will find "drunken" Cypriot halloumi cheese sautéed in ouzo, cinnamon-scented mujadarah (lentils and rice) and rich desserts kissed with rose water and orange blossom syrup. Olive oil dominates, flavors pop and greens are garden-crisp.

Celebrating its first anniversary next week, Mazza seats 125 in a casual storefront upgraded with marble tile and furnished in subtle hues of ivory, tan, coral and moss green. Tables are draped in formal white tablecloths but topped with white paper -- a relief for parents bringing kids. Curtains would add intimacy to the front of the restaurant, overlooking a parking lot; it's cozier, with soft lighting, in the back.

The warm, relaxing atmosphere is livened up Saturday evenings by a belly dancing show followed by a DJ. Co-owner Faris Bushnaq, a native of Jordan, is usually working the front room, greeting customers and building their enthusiasm for the meal ahead. (Bushnaq and business partner Elie Khoury also own Chevy's Fresh Mex in Doral.)

We're thrilled at the get-go to find entrees under $20 -- a rarity these days. The varied list of about 40 wines is also fairly priced, and includes the Greek white Moschofilero.

Mazza (mezze) -- for small plates -- are a great way to sample the menu. Falafel are well-seasoned, crunchy outside but fairly moist within. There's a classic spinach pie, garlicky shrimp saganaki with broiled feta and our favorite, ultra creamy hummus with warm pita points.

The tabouleh (chopped parsley, cracked wheat, tomatoes and a hint of mint) is elevated by a refreshing pomegranate molasses vinaigrette. Other lively salads include fattoush (lettuce and veggies with a sumac sauce) and skirt steak and Gorgonzola with mixed greens, cranberries, roasted beets and onions.

We loved a soup special of butternut squash with a hint of cinnamon and a sprinkling of Parmesan in a rich, velvety broth.

You'll find all manner of kebabs here, served off the skewer. We tried two: nicely charred kafta, a sausage-shaped roll of ground lean beef, lamb and spices; and smoky shrimp teamed with grilled onions, green peppers and tomatoes.

Mazza offers popular dishes like a tender gyro (platter or pita sandwich) and thinly sliced chicken shawarma, the only dish we had that was dry.

Lamb chops, however, are juicy and delicious, marinated overnight in a seven-spice marinade, served with sautéed spinach and oven-roasted lemon potatoes. Another hit: a delicious whole fresh fish that you can have cooked your way. Our grilled red snapper was rubbed with sea salt, lemon, parsley and olive oil, and perfectly cooked.

Desserts are a high point. Assorted baklava is good, but basic. Much more exciting: ashta, a puff of phyllo pastry filled with custard and drizzled with a rose water and orange blossom syrup. Another scrumptious treat: two scoops of pistachio ice cream plus dates stuffed with sugar-coated crushed almonds and pistachios. The ice cream is set on an almond tuile glistening with the same delicate syrup. If you need one more indulgence, end with a cup of potent Turkish coffee.