With the dozens of Argentine and Brazilian grills putting flesh to fire in South Florida, why pick this one to review? The question is best answered by the many readers who write in complaining about high prices, rude service and mediocre food.

At Matador in North Miami Beach the prices are so low, the service so very friendly and the food such a cut above the norm that it's worth a try.

OK, so the space is abysmally ugly. Despite attempts to warm up the 5,000 square feet of concrete with potted plants and wooden booths, it still looks like a cross between a hospital waiting room and a roller skating rink.

Here's the deal: For $19.95 ($23.95 on weekends), you get all the meat, chicken, salad, potatoes and bread you want, along with dessert and a bottle of wine -- yes, a bottle per person, not couple or table.

Though fully prepared for plonk, I found my 2003 malbec full-bodied, spicy, cherry -- perfect with all the red meat coming our way. You can also choose a cabernet, merlot or chardonnay -- all, of course, from Argentina.

Owners Olga and Luis Setti say they plan to add an upgraded selection for those who want to pay up for better-quality quaffing. It would be a nice but not entirely necessary touch.

The well-tended salad bar includes vegetable fritters, meaty green and black oil-cured olives, roasted peppers, cannellini beans, hearts of palms, cole slaw, potato salad, raw spinach, carrots, onions, corn, cucumber and tomato salad -- more than 30 choices in all, and plenty to satisfy any vegetarians in your party.

There's also pickled tongue, fried eggplant wrapped around slices of excellent ham and sweet and sour rolls with ham and cheese at the big central buffet table.

Greasy but delicious deep-fried chicken and beef empanadas can be ordered for $1.50 a piece. Better yet, stick with the crispy, golden steak fries, which come out minutes after ordering.

There is one detail that might deter big eaters: You'll have to keep leaving the table to get your food. Unlike more expensive rodizios, there are no waiters wandering the dining room with skewers of chorizo and morcillas to fill you up before you get the expensive cuts.

Instead, you walk to the large, open grill and state your request to the grill master. He usually has a ready supply of blood sausage (overcooked on both our visits) and juicy chorizo to tide you over while your order is cooked.

You can also sample a slab of roast chicken stuffed with eggs, red peppers, ham and olives as well as a pork roast packed with strawberry jam -- both a bit dry when we tried them.

But if you like churrasco -- the seared skirt steak known as entraña with a flavor-packed, slightly chewy bite -- then you are in luck. It is done perfectly here. So, too, the traditional sweetbreads (mollejas) and short ribs.

Rib-eye (ojo de bife) and a sort of New York strip (bife de chorizo), are also juicy, meaty and nicely charred with a thick, salty crust. The small chunks of filet mignon (lomo) are more tender than flavorful, but still delicious, especially with the do-it-yourself chimichurri sauce you can customize with extra chiles, oregano, salt, freshly ground hot pepper and garlic.

You can also get freshly seared eggplant or red pepper, but only if you know to ask.

Gringos, don't be shy, even if your ability to habla español is weak. The servers make valiant efforts at English. And bring the kids -- everyone else does, even at 11 p.m.

If you have room for dessert, skip the watery flan and choose, instead, a tooth-achingly sweet dulce de leche crepe oozing with rich, golden caramel.

Weak American coffee is free but not worth the price. Splurge, instead, on the $2 espresso. It is a perfect finish to one of the best value meals in town.