Macaluso's
- 1747 Alton Rd.
- Miami Beach, FL 33139
- 305-604-1811
- Report an error
- $$, $10 - $20
- Italian, Pizza
It’s just an Italian-American red sauce joint (albeit one using quality ingredients like De Cecco pasta and San Daniele prosciutto). But it certainly does attract celebrity diners … and a lot of controversy. People either love or loathe this pricey restaurant, depending on their reaction to being presented with the chef/owner’s list of House Rules —- no substitutions, no special orders (like salad dressing on the side), etc., etc., etc. -- before being presented with a menu. Those who have successfully run that gauntlet will defend to the death their opinion that Macaluso’s meatballs, rigatoni with broccoli and clam pizzas are the world’s best … or worst.
The welcome is warm and immediately you find yourself relaxing. The place istiny, no more than 34 seats, and has been open less than two months.
The menu is quite simple, dominated by pastas and pizzas, but not your usualfare. Pastas ($10.50 to $16.50) include rigatoni with broccoli rabe, penne andasparagus, a blessedly plain linguine with garlic and oil, and deliciousrigatoni with mushrooms.
Fusilli with cannellini beans make beautiful music together, the creamy beansplaying against the firm pasta in perfect harmony.
Chicken picante with rigatoni comes in a mildly spiced tomato sauce, thechicken quite tender. The sauce perhaps could go up a notch in heat.
Ravioli and peas is a classic we haven't seen making the rounds in Miami.Ravioli are plump with ricotta and generously dressed in a clear sauce of tinypeas and fresh basil. It is a delicate dish, light, gently flavored, perfectfor our climate.
The pastas are cooked al dente and embellished with just enough sauce. That'sas it should be, a small detail most Italian restaurants seem to forget,serving instead pasta swimming in sauce.
Pizzas ($9 to $11.50) are thin-crusted and come with an unusual array oftoppings: clams, asparagus, artichoke and basil, artichoke and prosciutto,sauteed peppers, plus the usual plain cheese and mushroom or onion. A far and welcome cry from pepperoni.
There are two or three specials each evening. Chicken with mushrooms in awhite sauce ($16.50) was tender and flavorful, with a dominant note of lemon.Large scallops ($18.50) topped with bread crumbs and butter were expertlycooked, but needed a bit of saffron or even red pepper flakes to play againstthe soft, sweet flesh of the scallops. Grilled chicken breast ($14.50) wasnicely seasoned, if a bit overdone.
All main courses were accompanied by fresh asparagus tossed in oil and garlic,skillfully cooked, not too crisp or too limp. A small portion of potatoes oreven plain pasta would have been welcome as well.
Desserts ($5.50) vary and run mostly to cheesecakes. It would be nice to seelighter, fruity choices, perhaps in a sampling of small portions. Cheesecake,no matter how good (and the chocolate and pear was very good), is simply tooheavy to follow a meal of pastas or pizza.
Service, by black-clad young men, is delightful. The waiters know the menuwell and can make recommendations of food and wine. They seem genuinelyinterested in having you experience a good meal and a pleasant evening.
Macaluso's young owner and chef, Michael Vito D'Andrea, was born into thebusiness. First his grandparents, and now his parents, own and operate theRoadhouse Restaurant, a well-known Italian enclave in Staten Island, New York.Michael couldn't wait his turn. Eager to cook, he wanted to be on his own. Sowith his family's blessings and his Grandma Lena's recipes (she is theMacaluso in the equation), he moved to Miami to try his fortune.
His inexperience shows in the occasional long wait between courses, and hemight need more maturity in the kitchen, but he shows great restraint (a rarevirtue in a young chef) and great promise. His love of the business of feedingpeople and his eagerness to please more than make up for any shortcomings.
Hours
6 p.m.-midnight Tuesday-Saturday, 6-11 p.m. SundayDetails
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Location
| Average rating based on 2 reviews. |
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- Current 82.4 °F
- It's an alfresco night
- Try a Grove sidewalk cafe
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I know that people complain about having to wait because they don't take reservations or how the "regulars" get priority seating, this place is still one of the best places in Miami-Dade. The food is simply good -- nothing fancy; just delicious. Their wine list is superb; just ask Charlie, the bartender, for a recommendation and you won't go wrong. For dessert, try the moist and mouth-watering vanilla cake or the tasty ricotta cheesecake. Come for the food and the wine, enjoy the ambiance and have a great Italian dining experience.
Posted by: Food_Dude on Mon, 2008-07-07 19:03