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Though often described generally, as Latin American, this mini-chain’s roots are in Nicaragua, and it's little touches from that country —- mainly sauces and garnishes -- that distinguish Los Ranchos’ dishes. The specialty here is charbroiled beef (as at parrillada places of Argentina, Uraguay, Brazil and many other nations), but beef tenderloin come with jalapeno cream sauce that saves the steak from generic boredom. Ripe sweet plantains are a standard Latin side, but not served with sour cream. And then there’s vigeron, fried pork skins -— not chicharron. Combined, Nicaraguan-style, with yucca, tomato, onion and pickled cabbage salad, it almost seems healthy.

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