If there is one player who dominates the Lincoln Road food scene, it's Graziano Sbroggio, a lanky, carrot-topped Italian who owns Spris pizzeria, Tiramesu (as he spells it), Segafredo and now Le Bon.

Veering from the all-Italian theme, his new mussels, frites and beer joint is Belgian-inspired, but like all of Sbroggio's spots, it delivers efficient service and moderate prices. The decor, though hip in its Clockwork Orange sparseness, is hardly worth mentioning because all the action is outside. Pastel marble tables tic-tac-toe across the sidewalk, overseen by a capable staff of sporty Europeans.

The menu offers some exotic fare as well as comfort dishes not often found in these parts, including a delectable, snowy clam chowder full of tender cubes of potato.

Many large salads are big enough to make a meal, but some, including a pallid beet and baby greens version, suffer from lifeless lettuce and a paltry hit of dressing. The Gruyere and celery root mix, on the other hand, is heavy with a rich and nutty dressing offset nicely by crisp, bitter watercress.

Asparagus done three ways is appealing, though the one I had with shrimp on one visit had just a bit too much iodine and salt. The shrimp cocktail, too, seemed washed out, though the fresh slabs of perfectly ripe Haas avocado helped mightily.

Hot and crispy mussel fritters are a good introduction to the tasty shellfish for those who may not like the texture of the big guys. If you prefer your bivalves slithery and raw, don't miss the selection of oysters and clams on the half-shell.

An overflowing platter of expertly fried calamari hunks in a flaky, golden batter was served with a fine marinara sauce and lots of lemon. (Note to the kitchen: Smaller, bite-size pieces would be much more manageable.) A simple snapper fillet stuffed with mushrooms and served with baby clams in a lemon cream sauce was another winner.

The seafood waterzooi, a classic Belgian stew thickened with egg, is an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink concoction that includes a satisfying melange of buttery salmon, meaty shrimp, juicy snapper and, of course, mussels. It's a good compromise for those who can't make a decision from the large and diverse menu.

Mainly, though, this is the spot for mussels. Served in pots by the half or whole kilo, these meaty guys can be prepared in a dozen styles including provencale, with wild mushrooms and cream sauce, with escargot, with Pernod and saffron or with spinach, bacon and melted cheese. The continental classic with white wine and onion in a creamy sauce was delicious. Oriental style, with a saffron-tinged curry cream sauce, also worked well.

But it is the thick-cut, twice-fried Belgian frites that would turn me into a regular here. We had them textbook-perfect on two visits and I still dream of dunking them into the thick, housemade mayonnaise. Add a pint of cider-like, chocolaty brown Le Duchesse de Borgone ale and you'll be transported.

Beer connoisseurs will be impressed with the selection, including two dozen exotic ales from the pale and popular Stella Artois on tap to a dark and potent Des Rocs Triple Imperial ($15). A decently priced, international wine selection with several half bottles is also a welcome innovation. The Beat the Clock special from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. is an incredible value. A half kilo of mussels costs whatever your watch reads when you order: Sit down by 6 and your meal is just $6, less than half the already reasonable menu price.

Also, you can order dishes from Sbroggio's other Lincoln Road restaurants, including fine thin-crust pizza from Spris and hearty pastas from Tiramesu. The young wait staff is more than happy to bring menus and dishes even on a busy Saturday night.

Finish up with an explosive melted chocolate mold festooned with vanilla gelato, whole pistachios and cigar cookies. La bon vie, indeed.