Success has ruined many a ma and pa restaurant that grew too big too fast. So when the Plantation Las Vegas was remodeled nine months ago, more than doubling its size, we feared one of our favorite restaurants would lose its warm ambience.

But regulars will still find outstanding service and wonderful home cooking at the family-run restaurant, one of six Las Vegas restaurants (with one more opening in 2004 in Cooper City) and three Vila's owned by Anthony Vilarino and his five daughters.

We've been coming to the Plantation Las Vegas at least a dozen years and have yet to be disappointed. If you forget something, a server runs after you in the parking lot. Water glasses are constantly refilled; bread replenished.

The Plantation site remains casual, but a bottle of wine and flowers now appear on each table. Colorful murals depict scenes of Cuban plantations -- the name Las Vegas refers to those fields, not the Nevada city. Prices have inched up, but most dishes are under $10. It won't bust your budget to order a bunch of starters, like the hearty empanadas and savory Spanish white bean soup. For a big group, try the bandeja Las Vegas, a huge appetizer assortment.

Las Vegas offers 23 entrees, mostly traditional favorites like vaca frita, bistec de palomilla and chicharrón de pollo that come with white rice, black beans and plantains. The ropa vieja is always good. Lechón asado brings moist chunks of roast pork with sliced onions and lime wedges; the churrasco steak is tender and juicy -- add a side of crisp mariquita plantain chips and life is good.

For dessert, try the guava cheesecake or creamy flan -- like Las Vegas, a real treat.