Kane Steakhouse

Sara Liss8/1/2011

The goods: NYC restaurateur Mathew Glazier (Strip House) and nightlife impresarios Roman Jones and Justin Levine ( Mansion, SET, Louis) bring another sleek beef temple to the former Tuscan Steak space, where Kane Steakhouse joins South of Fifth neighbors Prime 112 and Red.

Ambience: Relatively subdued. Cream-colored leather banquettes line the northern wall, bucking the usual dark-wood steakhouse trend, and waiters are outfitted in dapper bowties and white-piped black jackets. A long mirrored bar with inlaid TV panels lines the spacious, date-friendly dining room, and a private room in the back seats 12 for intimate dinners.

The grub: Standard steakhouse cuisine with a few tweaks. Young chef Daniel Ganem (Bourbon Steak, BLT Steak) presides over the gluttonous menu, which tends towards the pricey: Starters average $15 and steaks and seafood mains are $37 to $84 (porterhouse for two).

Begin with a basket of fresh baguettes, bacon-studded biscuits and cranberry bread and a complimentary amuse bouche of tomato gazpacho. Follow that with the Caesar salad, modified with an herby basil dressing and tomato croutons. The crisp salt cod dumplings add a nice Spanish touch while the duck fat hash browns (pictured) keep things rich.

Seafood like a miso black cod and a yellowtail snapper are offered, but stick with beef options like the Wagyu dry-rubbed skirt steak. Generously portioned sides include a lobster mac and cheese, crispy fried seaweed dusted with sugar and sweet potato fries with a marshmallow dipping sauce.

The verdict: A stylish South of Fifth steakhouse with pricey slabs of beef and decadent sides.