Jake's has the markings of a neighborhood institution: unpretentious name; large, well-stocked bar; tasty food at mostly reasonable prices and a loud, lively crowd.
Jake's has the markings of a neighborhood institution: unpretentious name; large, well-stocked bar; tasty food at mostly reasonable prices and a loud, lively crowd.
But Jake's aspires to be more than a tropical version of Cheers. The decor is hip; the service is friendly and efficient; the wine list is outstanding (deal alert: all bottles are half price Wednesday nights). And the menu features creative dishes with Caribbean and Pacific Rim touches.
Starters here are called small plates and bowls, but they're not tiny. Tonight's Tapas (the tidbits vary from time to time) boasts a spunky black olive tapenade, dollops of goat cheese 'truffles' (each morsel is rolled in paprika, pepper or ground pine nuts) and a mound of shaved serrano ham flanked by grilled ciabatta.
Ahi poke, a Hawaiian salad of raw tuna slivers, soy sauce, green onions, sesame seeds and macadamia nuts, is a handsome wedge, but the tuna and nut flavors get lost in the hot, garlicky Thai chili sauce.
There are no two ways about it: Duck Three Ways is a fabulous feast of Asian-spiced duck breast, duck salad and a crispy duck spring roll served with sesame-ginger vinaigrette and a piquant fish sauce.
A New York strip steak is flawless, but a take on pad Thai falls short. There are chunks of Maine lobster and at least a half-dozen shrimp, but the dish would benefit from more peanut flavor and lighter noodles. A better choice is a chili-spiked Caribbean seafood stew in a yummy coconut-shellfish broth.
Desserts, all house-made, include lovely tropical sorbets and a luscious macadamia nut and poached cherry bread pudding that makes me wish Jake's were in my neighborhood.
