Photo: Ross Hailey

Speak up!

Ice cream, like most other things Miami, has gone international. Say goodbye to Fudgie the Whaler and hello to the icy, cream-capped cones of Nicaragua, Haiti, Peru and Jamaica.

Nicaragua
Raspados Loly's on Flagler Street is like an old-school ice-cream shop, complete with antique popcorn machine, candy display case and kiwi-colored bench. Inside, manager Maúuel Duque prepares the house favorite: relleno. Duque scoops a layer of shaved ice into a foam cup and adds crumbled Entenmann's pound cake, lathering it with
dulce de leche. He repeats the process twice for an icy, crunchy, three-layer treat that is a textural pillage of the ubiquitous ice cream sundae. You can trade dulce de leche for other fillings: mango, limon, fresa (strawberry),
pineapple, tamarind or jocote (a mild-tasting red cherry). There’s also the raspado - tasty, syrup-drenched shaved ice in flavors like sour green apple, blue raspberry and pina colada.
Raspados Loly's: 10404 W. Flagler St., Miami; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily; 305-227-0488.

Haiti
North Miami’s Ferere Bakery features a colorful walk-up window stocked with display cases of Haitian patties. Inside, the crisp, white walls embrace floral-decorated cakes, peanut brittle and tubs of freshly made ice cream inspired by native Haitian fruits. Among the house favorites: corossol (soursop) and sweet sop, which taste and smell like the Caribbean; rum raisin, which is more rum than raisin; mango; vanilla; and grenadia, (passion fruit) that tastes like late-harvest Riesling.
Ferere Bakery La Patisserie Haitienne, 895 NE 132nd St., North Miami; 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 305-893-0689.

Peru
Walk into Mi Peru Restaurant and the red tabletops, vibrant paintings and coquettish Spanish banter add a frisson of excitement to devouring a cup of homemade Ceasarés ice cream. Sold in a bin in the back of the restaurant, they are reminiscent of those Italian ice cups you used to eat with a small, wooden paddle stick. Lima-born Cesar Rengifo has been making Ceasarés Ice Cream in a Lauderdale Lakes factory for eight years.The maracuya (passion fruit) tastes like sweet cream and the lucuma is like a spiced pumpkin pie. Other flavors include custard apple (guanabana), cherimoya and chocolate.
Mi Peru Restaurant: 1760 NE Miami Gardens Dr., North Miami Beach; 8:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 8:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 8:30 a.m.-midnight Saturday; 305-940-9404.

Jamaica
When one thinks of Jamaican ice cream, two flavors come to mind, grape nut and rum raisin. Certainly, not jerk ... unless you are Paul Johnson. In 1989, the Trelawney, Jamaica, native began experimenting with an ice cream homage to the famous island seasoning composed of allspice, thyme, onion, garlic, black pepper and scotch bonnet pepper. The result is a creamy, nutty vanilla body with the piquant bite of scotch bonnet at the finish.
Johnson’s spicy ice cream, under the Tropical Flavors brand, is manufactured and distributed wholesale by Ben-Hill Farms of Florida. It's sold at Boston Juicy Jerk Restaurant in Lauderhill and seasonally at the Jerk Festival in Markham Park. Johnson hopes to sell pints and half-gallons to club stores and supermarkets someday.
Paul Johnson's Jerk Ice Cream: Boston Juicy Jerk Restaurant: 5530 W Oakland Park Blvd., Lauderhill; 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday; 954-484-2620.