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About

Cuban subjects seem to attract controversy, and by that standard this restaurant, which has its enthused fans and equally determined detractors, couldn’t be more typically Cuban. The fare, though, actually roams the Hispanic sphere, with small spurts into odder parts of the universe. Along with traditional Cuban dishes like green plantain soup, there’s the Galician classic caldo gallego plus tapas-like Spanish starters (Serrano ham with melon, garbanzos fritis with chorizo), Peruvian ceviche, even a “Hawaiian ham steak”. Beef eaters can have a Cuban palomilla, an Italian/South American-style milanesa, or a straightforward NY strip with mashed potatoes. There’s even chicken cordon bleu, plus many meat dishes with wine sauces, for those with old-fashioned continental tastes.

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