Michael Schwartz does neighborhood pizza
3918 N Miami Ave, Miami
The goods: Star chef Michael Schwartz expands his Design District presence with homespun Harry’s Pizzeria, a neighborhood joint two blocks from his flagship Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink.
Ambience: Housed in the former Pizza Volante space, Harry’s (named for Schwartz’s son) is warmed by a massive wood-burning oven and a revamped bar stocked with local craft beers (Native Lager, Monk in the Trunk). Minimal décor – a mounted boar’s head, chalkboard doodles, marble-top tables with wooden tables – suit the chef’s laid-back vibe.
The grub: Seasonal, market-driven, thin-crust pies. Michael’s regulars will be in familiar territory; ingredients for salads, starters and pies are sourced from the same area farms and purveyors. Prices are gentle: pies $11-$14, salads under $10 and beers $5.
Starters range from meatballs to polenta fries, while perky salads include an arugula with roasted vegetables and a citrusy green olive, radish and fennel mix. The light, 11-inch pizzas include the margherita, a classic communion of dough, sauce, and cheese; the oyster mushroom (pictured), a surprisingly spicy pie with roasted poblano peppers and chiles; and the MGFD bacon, topped with cave-aged Gruyere and caramelized onions.
Desserts include a petite chocolate panna cotta with macerated cherries and sugar-dusted zeppoles served piping hot with honey-whipped ricotta. Coffee aficionados will enjoy beans from Wynwood’s Panther Coffee.
Verdict: A gourmet pizza spot from the Michael’s Genuine team with a menu that will satisfy beer and pizza snobs.
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