A family trip to China last fall left me craving most of all the drop-of-a-hat elegance of the family-style dining we enjoyed -- relaxed yet ritualized banquets with a dozen friends and acquaintances in which we were served a multitude of dishes in a kind of formal order I never fully understood.

I found a taste of that languorous pacing and fine, fresh fare at Hakkasan, the Fontainebleau's sexiest new restaurant. The London import is the creation of Michelin-starred Alan Yau, a Hong Kong native whose restaurants are known for exquisite food and a nightclubby vibe.

Hidden away on the fourth floor of the hotel, the gorgeous dining room is actually a maze of rooms divided by delicately carved teak screens that lend a seductive privacy. A clutch of pretty hostesses in hot pink Alexander McQueen dresses will help you find your way.

Moody lighting conjures welcome images of the sea in a cavelike space that doesn't offer a glimpse of water or sand. (A terrace dining room is due to open in the fall.)

Overseen by corporate executive chef Lee Che Liang, chef de cuisine Wen Ten Sian treats the quality ingredients with the delicate respect they deserve. And, yes, prices are high, ameliorated somewhat by abundant sharing options, from the most basic lemon chicken at $18 to the $195 Peking duck.

Each of the fish and seafood dishes we tried was better than the last. Tops is a signature fillet of roasted silver cod over tender stalks of gai lan (Chinese broccoli) in luscious honey and champagne sauces that offers a lush and slightly heady play of textures (silky and oily, creamy, crunchy) and flavors (sweet, bright and ever so slightly salty).

We also devoured a tender red snapper with a slightly spicy sauce rich with soy given snap by crunchy bits of scallion. Another simple standout is the beef stir-fried with sesame seeds and a nice bit of black pepper.

The roasted pi pa duck is every bit as good as the best Peking duck, served in bite-size slices with divinely crisped skin sumptuously lacquered in a mellow soy sauce. The only thing missing are those tissue-thin pancakes and divine sauces for rolling.

You can make a meal of the dim sum platter, a bamboo basket filled with an array of luscious steamed dumplings as light as the best I remember from my travels. There are two with shrimp, one with chives and another bundle of slippery, musky wild mushrooms that stands out especially with the potent chile dipping sauce.

But the vegetables are what thrilled me most. All of the seasonal Chinese greens are divine, including gently wok-fried baby bok choy and snow pea shoots. A platter of slender French green beans are transformed by a sprinkle of tiny dried shrimp and preserved olives. And wild mushroom hand-pulled noodles with finely diced vegetables are an umami fest.

Waiters, though well-meaning, are not the competent, clever ones I remember from the restaurant's first months. The new batch is more like what I am accustomed to on the Beach -- cute and a bit snooty without much in the way of knowledge or savvy.

Wine choices from the international list are exceptional, including a crisp Greco di Tufo for $55 that worked wonders with our spicy, fishy selections. Iced jasmine tea is a real luxury with its flowery sweetness. I only wish they would lose the jasmine incense, which gave me a headache.

Desserts are rare in China and often eaten during a meal. At Hakkasan we were treated to fantastic sorbets in flavors like coconut, grapefruit and passion fruit. Divinely tangy yogurt soup with fresh strawberries makes a delightful ending to a meal that feels healthful and indulgent at the same time.