The aroma permeates the parking lot of what's otherwise a typical strip mall, neighboring Bird Bowl. The smoke gets the attention of all the senses -- through the nose first, of course, but quickly making its way to ground zero, the growling stomach. Graziano's Parrilla Argentina is not a restaurant that makes room for a grill, it is a grill that makes room for a restaurant.
The aroma permeates the parking lot of what's otherwise a typical strip mall, neighboring Bird Bowl. The smoke gets the attention of all the senses -- through the nose first, of course, but quickly making its way to ground zero, the growling stomach.
Graziano's Parrilla Argentina is not a restaurant that makes room for a grill, it is a grill that makes room for a restaurant. The asador, a huge, low-to-the-ground, wood-burning grill, burns the very hard wood of the quebracho colorado tree, found only in South America. The smoke has a distinctive, clean, appealing smell, and it lures you right into Graziano's.
The restaurant has been open for 12 years, doubling in size in a 1998 expansion. First sight when you walk in is the asador, then another grill, then the large, handsome, masculine dining room, the dark-wood bar, the open kitchen in the back. The walls are practically papered with wine; bottle after bottle, mostly from Argentina, Italy and Spain. There are plenty of whites, but the reds naturally prevail -- the better to lubricate the coming ingestion of red meat by the pound. There are other things on the menu here, but the Argentine restaurant experience must include beef, and the beef experience must include good red wine.
EVEN A MEATLESS DISH
We began with an assortment of empanadas ($3 each), baked turnovers available in three flavors. Best was spinach and ricotta, soft and salty and hot, with mozzarella adding chewy texture. Most popular, naturally, is ground meat with raisins, onions and olives; chicken with tomatoes, onions and olives is good, too.
Vegetarian diners ought to know better but pestered owner Leo Graziano for a meat-less dish. He dug back into family history for Antipasto di Avelino ($15, serving two), in honor of his father's hometown of Avelino, Italy. It's a colorful, interesting array of sun-dried tomatoes, roasted red and yellow peppers, shiitake and porcini mushrooms, vinegary shredded grilled eggplant, cherry peppers stuffed with prosciutto (OK, one slip) and provolone, cannellini beans and grilled artichokes. This can be an entree for one.
An appetizer you won't see for a while is camarones Patagonicos with avocado ($9); Graziano's will bring it back when avocados are more seasonal. Too bad -- it's a good one, a generous half-dozen of jumbo shrimp, sliced avocado and a sprightly salsa verde with anchovy, mustard, garlic and parsley.
On to the grill. Menu has an asador section, and we headed right for it. Lechon al asador y papas noisette ($22) is pulled pork, and if you think it looks like North Carolina barbecue, you're right -- that's where they get it. Graziano's marinates it in chimichurri for a day or two before, then slow-cooks it on a spit over the asador. The meat is tender-soft, stringy, just like it is down home. Only not as sweet. Papas noisette, tiny balls of fried potato, resemble Tater Tots, a bit of comic relief. This is a lot of food, but meager compared to other entrees.
Take for example cordero lechal ($29). This is a rack of lamb, eight big lamb chops, something Wilma Flintstone would serve to Fred. The chops are marinated with lemon, rosemary, garlic and thyme, grilled and served with your choice of side dish. Our choice was a large dish of potatoes au gratin, which turned out to be overkill, given the portion sizes, and survived till lunch. That side, though, was skimpy compared to what appeared to be a quart of portobello risotto, a creamy, buttery creation that unfortunately was served cold.
Our black grouper ($29) was massive, three large chunks of lush fish grilled and topped with giant coins of frozen sage-infused butter, slowly melting as it arrives. Grilled baby carrots, tiny zucchini and asparagus make for a colorful picture, but the star is truly succulent fish.
NATURAL BEEF
And lest we forget. Graziano's churrasco ($18) is not the usual strip steak but a 16-ounce boneless sirloin. The menu promises no seasoning, only salt, just natural beef flavor (American beef, because of the import ban on Argentine beef, but most won't notice). This is a simple and excellent steak, best ordered medium or medium rare.
Desserts are brought on a tray for viewing. Best-looking was balcarce ($3.99), a white cake with layers of meringue, canned peaches and a bit of dulce de leche. Quite sweet, but multitextured and interesting. And like everything here, plenty to share.
