Midtown is sprouting new eateries like mushrooms after rain. The latest is Gigi, an urban diner with an Asian twist. The dishes sound deceptively simple, from buns to rice and noodle bowls, but are infused with complex flavors.

Gigi is the latest creation of Amir Ben-Zion, who also owns the live music venue Bardot next door. After trying out several chefs he hired Jeff McInnis, who left the Ritz-Carlton for the casual creative lab.

The Florida native grew up in Niceville, a small town in the Panhandle where he learned to cut fish. The Johnson and Wales grad was influenced by stints at a Caribbean-Asian place in the Virgin Islands and a Japanese-inspired French restaurant in San Francisco. His seasonal menu changes every few months, and over time will explore the world.

For now, there's ramen, barbecue ribs with pickled chile slices and meatloaf made from braised, boned and shredded short ribs formed into a square cake and pan-fried until crusty, served on a smoked plantain puree with soy molasses.

Soft, yeasty steamed bread discs are folded around various savory fillings to make puffy bao (buns). Shiitake with sticky soy brings slices of meaty, grilled mushroom caps in a spicy-sweet reduction sprinkled with flakes of katsuobushi (smoked and cured bonito fish). Raw bar items vary with the day's catch.

If you've ever wanted to watch an unscripted cooking show live, sit at the long wood counter that is an extension of the open kitchen. You can banter with the line cooks as their woks flame and sizzle. Try Key West pink shrimp in ginger butter or a special of beer-battered Everglades frog legs on a bed of creamy grits.

End with state fair-style desserts that change nightly such as peanut butter-dipped bananas wrapped in cotton candy or peach crumble topped with soft-serve vanilla ice cream. It's loud, orchestrated chaos with a home-style heart in a cool setting.