Having grown up in Atlanta, I have to admit going in that I might be a bit biased, but I do know what barbecue's supposed to taste like and it tastes like the Georgia Pig.

The Anderson family opened the place in 1953, back when State Road 7 was a two-laner way out in the sticks, so it shouldn't come as much of a surprise that they're pretty well getting the hang of it.

Outside, of course, everything's changed, but come on in for a trip back to a time when the waitresses called you ''Hon'' and seafood meant fried shrimp served with tartar sauce.

OK, the songs on the jukebox are fairly current, and you can't smoke inside anymore, though they've still got cigars for sale behind the register. About the only meaningful change came in the last month or so with the addition of a fully handicapped-accessible restroom.

Even now you'd be hard pressed to drop more than $10 on a pork sandwich with fries and slaw, a soda and a slice of pecan (accent on the first syllable, please) pie for dessert.

Or try one of the daily specials, always $5.75 and always a taste of authentic home cooking like meatloaf or a roast served with mashed potatoes and vegetables.

If you're a newcomer and like it hot, don't miss the Brunswick stew, a secret family recipe that will definitely light you up.

And if you're too early for lunch -- say anytime between 6 and 11 a.m. -- don't despair. Breakfast is country heaven with sausage gravy and biscuits, hot cakes and syrup and the ever traditional eggs and bacon with grits swimming in butter. As Andy Taylor would say, mmmm, mmmm, that's good.