Feast on deli classics at Josh's Deli in Surfside

Sara Liss4/30/2012

The goods: Chef and restaurant owner Josh Marcus channels Jewish deli nostalgia.

Ambience: Located in the former Chow Down Grill space, Josh’s Delicatessen and Appetizing has a handful of tables that overlook Harding Avenue, bamboo plants and a bar with kitchen views. The spot is open for breakfast, lunch and early dinner (closes at 8 p.m.).

The grub: A full roster of handcrafted pastrami, corned beef, sour pickles and potato latkes. The chef ages, brines and hand cuts the corned beef and pastrami, bakes bagels daily, and even makes the mustard. Prices are neighborhood-friendly - starters $4-$8, sandwiches $10 and mains under $20.

Begin with hand-sliced, house-smoked salmon (pictured), chopped liver sautéed in red wine or matzo ball soup made with duck fat and ginger beer. Bountiful deli-style sandwiches hold their own on Miami Beach. A charcuterie platter offers tongue; strips of soft, house-cured duck, pork and duck pate; pastrami; pickled red onions; mustard and hard-boiled egg. The “Jewban” blends pastrami, roast pork, house-made pickles and mustard, Swiss cheese and crunchy Cuban bread. Mains include fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gnocchi with chicken meatballs in a  vodka cream sauce.

Verdict: It may not be kosher, but this new-fangled deli offers some tasty classics that will take you back to the Jewish diners of yore.