Eddie Hills Sushi & Thai

Jeff Kleinman11/9/2011

Now that the weather is finally cooler, it’s time to slurp some noodle soup. And what else warms the gut like a large takeout container filled with steaming beef udon? OK, so it’s not snowing in South Florida. Just give us a breeze and below-70, and it’s time for winter comfort food.

That’s the theme at Eddie Hills, a former greasy spoon in Hallandale Beach converted a decade ago into an Asian diner. Now, instead of two-over-easy with a side of hash, it’s all about the homey noodle — sautéed, dunked in soup, flecked with meat, veggies and tofu, bathed in Japanese or Thai spices.

A sprawling menu covers it all: meat, fish, chicken. Yes, the tempura tempts. The sushi sings. But, oh, those noodles: so filling, cheap and versatile. So we stuck with the basics.

On the Japanese side, the aforementioned udon filled a plastic pint with chunks of beef and dark, soothing and flavorful liquid. A mountain of buckwheat noodles came on the side to sink into the container spoon by spoon. The yaki soba —stir-fried egg noodles — comes with a choice of veggies, shrimp, pork, beef, chicken or fried tofu. It’s topped with a “special sauce” — seemingly squeezed from the salt mines.

On the Thai side, flat rice noodles (pad see-ew) with tofu and broccoli were bathed in a sweet soy sauce. Pad Thai was traditional, with crushed nuts, broad noodles, scallions and sprouts. For some added luxury, top it with shrimp, squid, scallops, mussels and half a lobster tail.

Eddie Hills packs it in, with each container plenty for two. Order a few dishes, throw in a serving spoon, and mix and match for the family. (Note to the Eddie Hills staff: Include more forks and spoons since customers are likely sharing.) Start off the noodle meal with a noodle-less bowl of fish soup, a container of amber liquid with veggies and chunks of tilapia.

Our food was ready in about 20 minutes and packed securely in plastic-covered tins. If it’s a nice day, wait on the patio. If not, take your chances with a seat near the cramped cash-register area.