Eat here: Coral Rose Café

French toast with crushed pistachios, tabbouleh omelets and

Pistachio crustee French toast at Coral Rose cafe in Hollywood. Photo: Linda Bladholm.

By Linda Bladholm

Ownership of Hollywood's Coral Rose Café has changed three times in 20 years, and the current owners, Jack and Lidiya Umansky, are originally from Ukraine. They operated a gas station and Russian nightclub in Philadelphia for two decades before relocating to South Florida six years ago. The Umanskys kept the menu and long-time staffer Theresa Low, who does all the baking. Soon after you're seated, you can expect a complimentary basket of her whole wheat and fruit bread with a jar of house-made jam.

The two-egg specials with home fries and choice of sausage, bacon, pancakes or toast won't set you back more than $4. (Coffee is extra.) There's a quiche of the day plus create-your-own eggs Benedict with options like smoked salmon, portobello mushroom, seafood or spinach. Or try the buttermilk pancakes embedded with pecans or fresh apple slices; strawberry waffles; thick, eggy French toast encrusted with coconut shreds or crushed pistachios; granola and yogurt; fresh-baked cinnamon rolls or huevos rancheros with chorizo.

One of the most interesting omelets is the tabbouleh, enfolding cracked wheat, fresh herbs, onion and diced tomato. The Kaplan, named for a former customer, has spinach and good-quality feta. The fajita omelet has grilled chicken strips with peppers, onions and sour cream. All are big enough to share unless your appetite is huge.

Lunch specials might include a monster chicken burger with potatoes or salad, an eight-ounce steak with mashed potatoes and gravy, grilled tilapia fillet with brown rice or a
vegetarian wrap with hummus and sprouts. There's no sushi or cutting edge fusion fare here, just Paul Bunyan-sized breakfasts and good home-cooked food in a pleasant spot that marches along to its own quaint beat.

Coral Rose Café, 1840 Harrison St., Hollywood; 954-925-4414; 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Mon-Fri, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat & Sun; breakfast (until 11 a.m.); $2.99-$12.50, lunch $3.25-$9.99

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Published: 6/08