East End Brasserie

 

Feast at a "brilliant" brasserie on Fort Lauderdale Beach

east end brasserie chef

Rochelle Koff

The Fort Lauderdale beach dining scene just got a little hotter thanks to chef Steve Zobel, whose East End Brasserie at The Atlantic Resort & Spa joins 3030 Ocean and Steak 954 as worthy draws for locals as well as tourists. Replacing Trina, which had lost its way after seven years, East End Brasserie is a new restaurant, remodeled and revamped, with a new menu concept from Zobel, the well-regarded executive chef at Manhattan’s Triomphe for 10 years. Open six weeks, the Brasserie is already impressive.

The brasserie cuisine is a bit more Provencal than Parisian, paired with a small but respectable wine list, including our $32 Terre d’Avignon Cotes du Rhone. There’s a full raw bar, artisan cheese cart and charcuterie plate. While it’s easy to splurge, particularly on lavish raw-bar tiers ($78, $135 with caviar), you won’t find the usual sky-high beach markups. The most expensive dish is a $36 beef Wellington (Saturday nights only).

Ambience: The decor is bright and casual, reflecting the French bistro theme, with red leather banquettes, teal hues, “deconstructed” French chandeliers and rustic-looking communal oak tables. And you can’t beat the sea-salty breezes on the oceanfront terrace.

What Worked

  • A bread basket with homey walnut-raisin, sourdough boule or seven-grain batard served with butter flavored by truffle oil, chives, parsley and pepper
  • Delicate porcini mushroom butter sauce served with a starter of perfectly seared sea scallops topped with terrine of foie gras
  • A varied selection of oysters - bracing Dabob Bay, Fanny Bay and Kumamoto from the Pacific Northwest and satiny Blue Points from the East Coast
  • Watermelon and tomato salad
  • French onion soup
  • Pan-roasted chicken livers
  • Coriander-crusted rack of lamb, cooked in a port wine reduction, bursting with juices and served with prunes stuffed with foie gras terrine
  • Decadent beef Wellington - a seven-ounce portion of ultra tender filet mignon slathered with mushroom duxelles and barely discernible foie gras, baked in puff pastry and served atop creamed spinach with a rich peppercorn sauce
  • Moules-frites - a mound of mussels in a garlicky white wine broth
  • Irresistible skinny fries
  • Mustard-crusted lane snapper with braised white beans and sautéed spinach
  • Gemelli pasta in a deeply flavored sauce blending chanterelles, criminis, hedgehog, a whisper of truffle oil and a dusting of Parmesan cheese
  • Beets in ginger cream sauce
  • Thinly sliced, caramelized brussels sprouts
  • Creamsicle crème brûlée brightened by orange zest
  • Elegant dark chocolate mousse bombe garnished with a tiny gold leaf, a hazelnut chocolate crunch and coffee ice cream

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