Delicias Del Mundo
Pinecrest's Delicias Del Mundo earns an unconvincing "ok" from our dining critic
Delicias Del Mundo
12729 S. Dixie Hwy, Pinecrest
Hours: 11am-3pm and 6-10pm Tuesday-Friday, noon-3pm and 6-10:30pm Saturday, 3-9pm Sunday
Prices: tapas $6-$15, entrees $15-$25, paella for two $38-$42, desserts $5
FYI: Wine and beer only; corkage $10. Plentiful self-parking. AX, MC, VS.
The popular small-plate concept is a welcome twist in Pinecrest at the months-old Delicias Del Mundo, where an international tapas menu is combined with global entrees in a something-for-everyone approach. Chef Jaime Perez, known to many from his days at Diego's in Coral Gables, is in charge of the kitchen. His menu has a smattering of dishes from around the world including Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Argentina, Peru and the Bahamas. There's even a $7 kids' menu with steak, spaghetti, chicken or fish sticks with dessert and drink.
The pleasant young staff isn't well-versed in the menu, nor in such basics as being ready for expected guests. Though ours was the only name in the reservation book on a weeknight in late May, they had to scramble to pull together a pair of two-person tables for us. Delicias del Mundo is a work in progress, but if you're in the neighborhood, there are some tasty offerings to be had here.
Ambience: Owners Ricky Villena and Jose Vila play up the rustic charm with a dark wood bar, wine barrels and flamenco dancing on weekends. Softer lighting would make for a cozier, more authentic atmosphere.
- Slivers from a fat jamon Iberica: a wooden wine barrel forms the carving table for the nutty, rich and authentically musty pork hindquarter
- A tall, dense traditional tortilla espanola full of just-right buttery potatoes with a slight golden crust
- Tostones rellenos - cupcake-size bowls formed from crispy fried plantains holding a nice array of hand-shredded chicken breast flavored by a zingy sofrito and a scattering of fresh parsley
- Tender pork nuggets souvlakia, served with fresh yogurt tzatziki
- Tangy and spicy lime leche de tigre ceviche (although imported fish was bland)
- A reasonably priced 40-bottle wine list
What Didn’t Work
- An uninspiring deli case largely stocked with domestic (Dietz & Watson) or Canadian meats & cheeses
- Commercially made and not fresh mayonnaise-based potato and tuna salads
- A soupy, neon-yellow paella with overcooked seafood
- Mealy pulpo alla gallega
- Leaden conch fritters
- Greasy croquetas de bacalao
- Stiff beef sliders on brick-hard buns
- Seafood-stuffed mini crepes draped in cheese sauce that were broiled until they stuck to the plate
- Textbook crema catalana and an almond tart
- 2 stars for Cavalli Restaurant & Lounge in South Beach
- 3 stars for 1826 Restaurant in South Beach
- 3 stars for Seasalt & Pepper on Miami River
- 2 stars for South Miami's Buns & Buns
- 2.5 stars for Petit Bistro in Miami Beach
- 1.5 stars for Bocce Bar in Midtown
- 2.5 stars for Il Mulino's "Italian-American razzle dazzle: in Sunny Isles
- 2.5 stars for Big Fish on Miami's Upper East Side
- 1.5 stars for Batch Gastropub: "A better bar than restaurant"
- 2.5 stars for North Miami's Sea Grill