Delicias Del Mundo

Victoria Pesce Elliott7/7/2010

The popular small-plate concept is a welcome twist in Pinecrest at the months-old 
Delicias Del Mundo, where an international tapas menu is combined with global entrees in a something-for-everyone approach. Chef Jaime Perez, known to many from his days at Diego's in Coral Gables, is in charge of the kitchen. His menu has a smattering of dishes from around the world including Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Argentina, Peru and the Bahamas. There's even a $7 kids' menu with steak, spaghetti, chicken or fish sticks with dessert and drink.

The pleasant young staff isn't well-versed in the menu, nor in such basics as being ready for expected guests. Though ours was the only name in the reservation book on a weeknight in late May, they had to scramble to pull together a pair of two-person tables for us. Delicias del Mundo is a work in progress, but if you're in the neighborhood, there are some tasty offerings to be had here.
 
Ambience: Owners Ricky Villena and Jose Vila play up the rustic charm with a dark wood bar, wine barrels and flamenco dancing on weekends. Softer lighting would make for a cozier, more authentic atmosphere.
 
What Worked

• Slivers from a fat jamon Iberica: a wooden wine barrel forms the carving table for the nutty, rich and authentically musty pork hindquarter
• A tall, dense traditional tortilla espanola full of just-right buttery potatoes with a slight golden crust
• Tostones rellenos - cupcake-size bowls formed from crispy fried plantains  holding a nice array of hand-shredded chicken breast flavored by a zingy sofrito and a scattering of fresh parsley
• Tender pork nuggets souvlakia, served with fresh yogurt tzatziki
• Tangy and spicy lime leche de tigre ceviche (although imported fish was bland)
• A reasonably priced 40-bottle wine list

 
What Didn’t Work

• An uninspiring deli case largely stocked with domestic (Dietz & Watson) or Canadian meats & cheeses
• Commercially made and not fresh mayonnaise-based potato and tuna salads
• A soupy, neon-yellow paella with overcooked seafood
• Mealy pulpo alla gallega
• Leaden conch fritters
• Greasy croquetas de bacalao
• Stiff beef sliders on brick-hard buns
• Seafood-stuffed mini crepes draped in cheese sauce that were broiled until they stuck to the plate
• Textbook crema catalana and an almond tart