In nearly two decades, Creolina's has had three lives. The first was as a tiny diner in an industrial area of northwest Fort Lauderdale. The second was a 12-year run in a cozy spot in hip Himmarshee Village, where the place was a favorite of downtown professionals. And in September, the New Orleans-style restaurant morphed into Creolina's Dixie Takeout in a Davie shopping plaza.

The first two moves were driven by dreams, the last by necessity. Chef-owner Mark Sulzinski says the landlord wanted his former Southwest Second Street space when the lease expired. A craving for Chinese takeout led to his new digs -- he discovered the storefront was vacant and soon it was his. Located behind a Dunkin' Donuts off State Road 84, it's far from the Fort Lauderdale power lunch bunch, but Sulzinski spruced it up, painting the walls a bright yellow, decorating with pictures of the French Quarter. Along with takeout , there's seating for 30.

Best of all, the food is still great, the prices are lower (the most expensive dish is $11.95) and beloved waitress Rosa Mary "Rosie" O'Neal, a fixture since Creolina's opened 19 years ago, is still here, working weekdays.

The new menu is a mix of New Orleans-style cookery and down-home country fare like shrimp and grits, catfish and hush puppies, fried okra, collard greens and, of course, sweet tea. Southern comfort.

Sulzinski got hooked on the enticing flavors of Creole-Cajun cuisine while studying at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. He was a chef at 15th Street Fisheries and the former Left Bank and spent time in the Crescent City.

At Creolina's Dixie Takeout , you're greeted by the heady aromas of sizzling sausage and Louisiana spices, saut�ed garlic and smoky barbecue. Dining with a Southerner in hog heaven, we started with fried green tomatoes -- often greasy and wimpy but here juicy and firm, wrapped in a light panko coating, with a perky green onion-ranch dip.

The hearty gumbo is as rich and complex as its heritage, built on a deep, dark roux, potent spices and the "holy trinity" of saut�ed onions, celery and green bell peppers. Sulzinski adds the customary okra, tomatoes and sausage -- Pennsylvania Dutch smoked kielbasa with plenty of earthy, spicy flavor to sub for andouille. He doesn't thicken the gumbo with woodsy-flavored fil� powder, but will add it at your request.

You can't beat the gumbo deal: Pay an extra dollar and get shrimp and crawfish. You can't beat Creolina's savory red beans, rice and sausage, either -- a huge helping for $7.95.

We didn't like the cheese biscuit or chicken and dumplings as much as most other dishes, but we could eat buckets of the delectable crawfish �touff�e, a sea of plump coral crawfish tails in a creamy Cajun sauce on a mound of white rice, served with a biscuit or corn bread.

Smoky, country-style ribs are ultra meaty and tender with little bone, slathered with a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. We loved the grilled shrimp served with mounds of breaded, deep-fried grits and a kicky tasso cream sauce with highly cured smoked pork.

Catfish is juicy and perfectly cooked, cut into strips, dusted with cornmeal and fried to a light crisp, served with hush puppies (a little overcooked), two sides and peppery "firecracker" and r�moulade sauces.

Many dishes include your pick of sides like collard greens, mac and cheese, fried okra and smashed potatoes.

The only dessert is warm bread pudding and it's scrumptious, as homey as a cuddly blanket on a chilly night, spiked with Bourbon and laced with sweet custard.

"The people out here are nice," says Rosie. "But I miss those good-looking men in downtown Fort Lauderdale."

I bet they're missing Creolina's -- and Rosie, of course.