Feasting on plate after plate loaded with steaks, sausages, ribs (and more), I had to think about the couple booted out of a buffet in Utah a few years ago for eating too much meat. They, at least, had an excuse -- they were on the Atkins Diet. We were just overindulging, as if in a carnivore nirvana, because that's what you do at a rodizio.

There are no meat police at Chima Brazilian Restaurant in Fort Lauderdale, only tempters dressed as gauchos in typical bombachas (baggy trousers), white shirts and kerchiefs, whisking around skewers of meat, tantalizing our senses with smoke and spices.

Why the gauchos? Centuries ago, the story goes, the South American cowboys cooked meat on skewers over an open fire, creating churrasco. Chima follows tradition, grilling its beef, chicken and fish over flaming pits.

You can catch a glimpse of the cooking process from a window overlooking the romantic courtyard, illuminated by torches and scores of twinkling white lights -- a quiet spot to have a drink or wait for a table. Chima's is special-occasion pricey, but after three years, it is nearly always packed after 7; reservations are a must.

Named for the chimarrao, a national drink that symbolizes friendship and acceptance, Chima is indeed welcoming. Inside, there's a separate, small bar and classy, contemporary dining rooms decorated with paintings, pottery and glassware.

The focal point in the sleek, 250-seat restaurant is a gourmet salad bar as lavish as a cruise-ship spread. It's worth a trip to Chima just for a trip to the buffet (you can order the salad bar alone for about half the price of the full rodizio). Among the more than 30 items are a wonderful corn mousse, Brazilian feijoada (black beans with pork loin, sausage and ribs), prosciutto, beef carpaccio, two soup choices, nine dressings and assorted salads, fresh fruit, cheeses and meats.

You can easily pig out on the salad bar and all the extras -- puffy cheese rolls, ultra-smooth mashed potatoes and basic cheesy, creamed spinach brought to the table -- but then you'll be too stuffed to enjoy the main event: the meat.

Chima's lineup (17 items) includes filet mignon, Brazilian-style beef picanha, pork sausage (linguica), prime rib, flank steak, top sirloin, free-range chicken wrapped in bacon, salmon, shrimp and fish.

Since we had newcomers in our group, our friendly waitress quickly ran down the rodizio rules. There is no menu (except for dessert and the extensive wine list), and each table is equipped with two important tools: a pair of tongs for lifting meat off the spit and a two-toned ``token.''

Place the orange side up (Sim, por favor) and gauchos will start circling your table. Want some prime rib? Of course. A few ribs? Why not? And what about our favorite, the lamb? Whoaa! Time to flip the disc to the black side (Nao, obrigado) and take a break.

It's easy to fill up quickly, but no one was rushing us out the door. Sit back and savor a full-bodied red wine or a refreshing caipirinha (a mojito-like Brazilian cocktail) while you catch your breath and loosen your belt.

As for the surf side of the menu, salmon was fine, but the shrimp (which you have to shell) weren't too flavorful. All the meat we sampled, though, was flavorful, well-seasoned and tender, superior to what you'd expect of an all-you-can-eat experience. The key is taking the time to savor each cut.

We ended our feeding frenzy by sharing a light passion-fruit mousse with a side of hot chocolate and a serving of vanilla ice cream with a banana sauce tweaked with cinnamon and orange juice and heated at the table. Thankfully, there's no token for more dessert.