Cevichery

Sara Liss8/12/2011

The goods: Cevichery Restobar peddles modern Peruvian cuisine in a small but inviting space on Espanola Way.

Ambience: The interior is a mix of old and new – lime-green arched windows overlooking the café-lined street, and rustic brick walls form a backdrop for mod white tables and clear plexiglass chairs.

The grub: As the name indicates, seafood cured in tart lime juice is a specialty of the house – and available six ways, from mild to fiery pepper-spiked mixtures. Young chef Diego Pilares studied at the Le Cordon Bleu in Lima and brings a contemporary approach to the colorful Latin dishes. Prices are moderate: ceviches average $13, mains top out at $18 and sides are $5.

Start off with classic Al Aji Limo ceviche — swai fish with lime, red onions and aji limo chile, or a more adventurous version spiked with hot rocoto pepper. All ceviches are topped with oversized Peruvian “choclo” corn, a starchy relief from the heat.
Other menu options include Tiradito Al Aji de Naranja, a platter of thinly sliced fish bathed in orange juic; Conchas a la Parmesana, broiled scallops served on the shell topped with crisped Parmesan cheese (pictured); and Lomo Saltado con Quinoto, a stir-fry of filet mignon with onions, tomatoes and soy sauce.

Sides include classic tacu tacu rice and bean croquettes and Fideos a la Huancaina, bowtie pasta with a spicy aji amarillo sauce.

The cocktail list features traditional drinks like the Pisco Sour,  made here with fresh kiwi juice in addition to lime. And for dessert – a light cheesecake flavored with lucuma, a Peruvian fruit.

The verdict: A hip Peruvian menu in a homey but slick South Beach spot.