The Tavern is a restaurant where the vacationing nuclear family would feel just as much at home as it would in Ocean City, Md.; Cape Cod, Mass.; or Calabash, N.C.
American beach resorts tend to share a few trademark characteristics: arelaxed pace; a laid-back, friendly populace; and at least a shrimper's dozenof spacious family fish houses where you can get every kind of seafoodprepared every which way.
Miami does have quite a bit of beach and some resort tendencies, but anyoneclaiming that its pace is relaxed, or that more than 15 members of thepopulace are particularly laid-back, is misinformed. It's New York in a thong.
The fish-house quotient, too, is pretty low. But one such place, arestaurant where the vacationing nuclear family would feel just as much athome as it would in Ocean City, Md.; Cape Cod, Mass.; or Calabash, N.C.; isthe Captain's Tavern.
The Tavern is something of an anachronism, to be sure. Decor is circa MobyDick, with the prototypical paneling and seafarers' artistry, plaques bearingwitticisms about the restrooms and bar area with sympathetic bartenders whereyou can wait to be seated on busy weekend nights.
You might say it's anachronistic, too, in its insistence on quality, heartyportions and service at the expense of pretense, celebrity chefdom andstylistic atmosphere. The menu is hardly predictable: There is a decidedsubtropical bent, and more exotic choices; even a sashimi tuna appetizer, plusThai curried salmon with eggplant, pompano coated with macadamia nuts andother more trendy fare. But do not fear: The seafood traditionalist is assuredof great pleasure here.
The menu is long, broad, mind-boggling. The best strategy is to formulatein your mind during the drive over which fish or shellfish you might prefer,which narrows the selection to about a dozen methods of preparation, adecision you probably can make in the time allotted. There is a page ofnon-swimming items, though we'd wonder at the point of visiting here if youchose one.
Begin with a couple of traditional South Florida starters. Key West conchchowder ($2.50/$3) is a wonderfully well-stocked mix, with plenty of conch,potatoes, tomatoes, corn, onion, carrots and celery in a spicy stock thatgets a meaty undertone from bacon rind and an optional jolt at the table froma shot of sherry. Conch is the reluctant star in conch fritters ($3 for four),spongy balls of dough studded with green pepper and seasoning and deep-fried;not much conch but a lot of flavor.
Another soup, Maine lobster bisque ($2.75/$3.50), is 100 percent silk,thick cream with the lobster meat puree-smooth, the milky flavor counteredwith sherry. Creamier still are New Orleans style, pan-roasted oysters($6.95), a mini cast-iron skillet filled with a simmery cream sauce stronglyflavored with fresh rosemary, in which bubble about a dozen juicy, deliciousoysters.
A salad comes free with entrees, so don't get too greedy about appetizers.It's a good one, with field greens mixed in with the iceberg, and plenty oftomato. You'll also get some kind of starch, depending on what you order.There will be plenty of food.
Fresh fish entrees abound. We tried one with a tropical twist, a lusciouslump of fileted dolphin, grilled and then decorated with a salsa of mixedtropical fruits, then arranged atop creamy, tasty black beans ($16.95).Another island spin goes to Jamaican style yellowtail ($17.95), a whole freshsnapper that's simmered in a tomato sauce, with orange, thyme, allspice,scallions and a bit of scotch bonnet pepper (not a fiery amount, really). Riceand peas come on the side. Again, the key is fresh fish in large portion.
Chef's specials include a grand one, Cataplana seafood ($19.95), aPortuguese-style zuppa di pesce, if you will. It's a wide bowl filled withclams, mussels, shrimp, squid, fish and a piece of lobster, cooked in a tomatosauce spiced with chorizo plus onion, parsley, green pepper, bacon and butter.This is a real fiesta of seafood, a wonderfully hearty but interesting dish.
OK, a sop to the landlubber. Argentine strip steak ($16.95), imported fromSouth America, had a great, beefy flavor and was well-seasoned. We'd call thetexture, though, somewhat tough, with a bit too much marbling.
Desserts are bargain-priced ($3 or $4) considering they will serve six. Ourchocolate mousse cake was so dense it was as if a half-dozen Hershey bars hadbeen fused together into a brick of chocolate. Unfinishable. Key lime pie isamong the best in town. Is this a resort, or what?
