Marco Rodrigues has become such a fixture at his restaurant, Café Vico, that his last name has become obsolete. He's simply Vico or Marco Vico to the regulars who pack this Fort Lauderdale charmer nightly.

Vico's warmth and personality is such an instrumental part of the restaurant's success that it was difficult for him to maintain a second site in downtown Fort Lauderdale. ''I was competing against myself,'' he says.

He decided to sell his spin-off, Downtown Vico, but the restaurant will remain open until the end of December, serving lunches only.

Café Vico, which was a tiny, easy-to-miss spot when it opened in 1997 on Federal Highway, has expanded from 28 to 126 seats, and it's still tough to get a table on weekends (fans will be happy to hear they'll be serving lunch Monday-Friday starting in January).

Brazilian-born Marco Vico was a head waiter and working partner in '97 (he bought the place in '98). He learned the business doing everything from cooking to managing in New Jersey restaurants.

You can bet servers are well-trained, doting without being cloying, well-paced. We find the atmosphere most gracious and enjoyable when we arrive early before the place gets super busy and noisy.

Don't let the strip-mall location fool you. There's a touch of formality with candlelight and white tablecloths, rooms framed in wainscoting; black-and-white celebrity photos on faux mustard walls add a touch of whimsy. Most intriguing: a fresco-like painting of puffy clouds floating in a bright blue sky, illuminated by black lights, and inset into the ceiling in three dining rooms so you feel like you're staring into the heavens.

Despite the expansion, the emphasis is still on tried-and-true, lovingly prepared Italian food, a welcoming atmosphere and solid wine list. Vico's offers 260 vintages including labels from Brazil, Australia, New Zealand and of course, Italy, ranging in price from $25 to $600. Modest drinkers will find wines by the glass, including a favorite, deep red Villa Antinori Super Tuscan ($7.95).

Take a sip then devour homemade plump rolls served with an aromatic herb-spiked olive oil. It's easy to skip over soups on a warm day, but don't. Pasta e fagioli is on the menu, but the daily specials are incredible. Cream of carrot soup is a can't-miss joy. We also lingered over the simple but delicious tomato basil bisque. A hint of cream cuts the bite of the plum tomatoes and a bit of white potatoes add thickness.

Among appetizers, we are suckers for the zuppa di calamari steamed in a light wine and tomato sauce fragrant of garlic and basil. The antipasto for two, which easily satisfies four, brings fresh buffalo mozzarella, cold meats, roasted peppers, marinated vegetables and lots more.

The prime draw at Café Vico is the homemade pasta, including a popular lasagna Bolognese or my favorite, ravioli. The seasonal pumpkin ravioli, perfect for fall and not too sweet, is delicate and delightful, though my favorite is the seafood ravioli -- rounds of light, silky dough smothered in a rich lobster cream sauce.

Café Vico offers a basic menu and many nightly specials, including this excellent seafood dish: clams and mussels in the shell plus lobster tail and shrimp, calamari and a scallop or two sautéed in a zesty tomato sauce atop a mound of black-and-white linguine. Squid ink provides the color but not a strong taste. For those who can't resist Chilean sea bass, it's a frequent special, this night the richness balanced by pungent capers, artichoke hearts and a perky lemon sauce.

Count on menu faves like veal scaloppine sautéed in a port wine sauce or our longtime pick, chicken Marsala. Most entrees include mashed sweet potatoes, broccoli and a side of pasta.

End with a luscious chocolate mousse pie, classic tiramisu or just a refreshing serving of imported mango or coconut sorbet.

And don't forget to bid Marco Vico good night on your way out.