Buca takes its inspiration from the family-style basement restaurants (bucas) of New York's Little Italy, and it's got the style down pat, from the red-checked tablecloths to the kitschy photos and art that cover every inch of wall space.

It's loud, family-oriented and fun. There's even a banquette set up in the kitchen and a ``pope's table'' where you can dine surrounded by papal paraphernalia. Portions are meant to be shared, with the smallest big enough for three. Large portions serve up to six.

There's a children's menu, but the kids may as well dig in with the rest of the family. We started with the apple Gorgonzola salad on a mountain of greens, and moved on to chicken saltimbocca -- three pieces of pounded, sautéed chicken breast with artichokes, capers and rosemary in a lemony sauce. A side order of fettuccine alfredo was just right for two people, and we couldn't resist a side of the baseball-sized meatballs.