Servers Rolando Hernandez and Ariel Castillo at the Blue Door.

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At this point it’s unnecessary to describe the star clientele, or the slightly dated but still seductive Philippe Starck-designed setting, with its white curtains, white cushions, white everything. Focus instead on the white truffle oil drizzled on the jumbo ravioli stuffed with taro root mousseline and garnished with mushroom foam. Admittedly, many of the French tropical dishes, like foigrananana (caramelized pineapple with ginger and jalepeno, seared foie gras, and wasabi peanuts) sound like fusion confusion on the page. But thanks to the solid classical French training (and star chef genes) of consulting chef Claude Troisgros, dishes taste much more elegantly balanced and restrained than they read.

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