Bite into "playful ’cue" at Fort Lauderdale’s Red Cow
The neon “Meat” sign with the flashing “M” above the smoker not-so-subtly suggests that you “eat” at Red Cow
1025 N. Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale (in the Gateway Shoppes)
Hours: 11:30am-10pm Monday-Saturday, 9:30am-10pm Sunday
Prices: Starters $8 - $12, salads $11 - $13, sandwiches $10 - $12,
entrees $14 - $24
F.Y.I.: Full bar, 4-6pm weekday happy hour. Sunday brunch (9:30am-1:30pm) includes apple pie pancakes, pecan waffles and arepas with Cheddar and chorizo.
The neon “Meat” sign with the flashing “M” above the smoker not-so-subtly suggests that you “eat” at Red Cow. The industrial-hip joint has wooden tables, red chairs and cartoons projected on a back wall. Meats include brisket, ribs, pulled rotisserie chicken and smoked turkey breast.
Owner Elliot Wolf grew up in Coral Gables in a family of specialty foods importers. After working at Houston’s, he opened Coconuts and G&B Oyster Bar in Fort Lauderdale. Three months ago he opened the Red Cow with Texan-born chef Steve Shockey, who slow-cooks the meats in a Mesquite brand smoker over hickory and cherry wood.
Start with skillet cornbread, smoked fish dip or steamed and grilled artichoke halves. There’s also a “jerk-cuterie” plate of jalapeño-Cheddar sausage, “pork-strami” made from brined and smoked shoulder, pimento cheese with toast, pickled okra and strips of beef, duck and pork jerky seasoned with brown sugar and bourbon upright in a mason jar.
Sandwiches include the Smoking Gun (12-hour smoked brisket with crispy onions), Gobbler Club (apple wood smoked turkey with bacon jam) and North Carolina-style pulled pork with slaw and a hush puppy.
Go whole hog and get American Wagyu beef ribs charred in sweet tomato-pomegranate sauce or dry-rubbed, beer-steamed pork spare ribs with bacon mashed potatoes.
For sides, pick from fried Brussels sprouts, deviled eggs, sweet potato grits and cauliflower mash.
Drink dessert in a tequila-spiked root beer float.
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