Bite into divine swine sandwiches at Porketta in downtown Miami

 

Bite into divine swine sandwiches at Porketta in downtown Miami

porketta

Linda Bladholm

Porketta sounds like the name of a coquettish Italian piglet, but turns out to be a food-fast spot specializing in crispy-skinned pork rolls. Also spelled porchetta and known as tronchetto, or “little log”, this specialty can be enjoyed outside under an umbrella, inside at a stainless steel counter, or packed to go.

Giuseppe Cagnoni, creator of this pork-centric place grew up in Umbria, Italy, on his grandparents’ farm and in the trattorias his parents ran. He founded Etruria (Latin for central Italy) to market the olive oil and flavored vinegars produced on his farm along with pastas made by an Umbrian neighbor. Based in San Francisco for 15 years, Giuseppe moved the company to South Florida a few years ago and opened the eatery five months ago with a business partner.

The meat used for the roll comes from the loin, ribs and belly of purebred pasture-raised Berkshire hogs with marbled sweet meat. Once de-boned, the flattened mid-section is stuffed with a mixture of rosemary, garlic, fennel pollen, salt and pepper, and rolled up. The roll is stitched on the seam, tied with twine and roasted, with the fat drained off. When room temperature, it is sliced into thin pinwheels for piling into crusty ciabatta rolls with a choice of sauces (smoky barbecue, parsley, or spicy chile), gherkins and a shard of crackling or plated with cannelloni beans and broccoli rabe. The bombardino comes on a torpedo-shaped roll and the three little pigs is a trio of small sandwiches on mini rolls.

Also on offer are antipasti, soup of the day, and salads including fior di latte mozzarella with tomatoes and arugula. Friday brings fish specials from red snapper in salt crust to bacalao with black olives. There’s also pork rib and oxtail stew specials. Tiramisu ends with a dolce.

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