Barolo Ristorante

Victoria Pesce Elliott3/9/2010

Barolo Ristorante, a fairly recent reincarnation of a dysfunctional 2-year-old spot by the same name, has been trying to reinvent itself one gnocchi at a time. With its sexy dining room, earnest waiters and handmade everything, it certainly gets an A for effort. Just half a block south of Fifth on a quiet strip of Ocean Drive, eager valets are happy to park your car for free. Is this really South Beach? Well, the prices -- $27 for a shrimp risotto, $30 for pounded veal -- won't let you forget where you are.

The food by Lindsay Spalding, a young chef who worked under television terror Gordon Ramsay for nine years, is some of the best-looking in town. From the bountiful bread basket to the Caprese salad, the dishes look ready for the cover of Food & Wine. The quality of ingredients is above par, too, and the small-scale menu is well-composed, with pastas and rice dishes in two sizes to please both American and European patrons. But taste is another matter.

Ambiance: Iridescent tiles, a wall of wines, wood accents and pretty pink orchids on each table lend an elegant touch to the intimate dining room.

What Worked

• Signature cappellaci di carciofino – a pair of glossy, egg-yellow pasta purses stuffed with a velvety puree of artichoke, ricotta cheese & dried tomatoes and sauced in a sea of oil with capers and bitter baby arugula
• Colorful, well-composed and competently-cooked sweet pea and prawn risottos with a creamy bite
• Linguine alla vongole with a generous complement of perky clams, expertly timed noodles and perfectly peppery, chile-flecked seasoning
• A side dish of off-the cob sweet corn with a fruity burst of buttery sugar and just enough salt
• Branzino with an earthy harissa dressing
• Gently priced bottles of wine
• A colorful & flavorful dessert of blood orange carpaccio

What Didn’t Work

• Greasy and golden brown gnocchi with an off-putting brown-orange carrot and parsley sauce
• Uneven & inappropriately friendly waiter service
• Overcooked squid ink taglietelli with crab and garlic
• Good lucking, but disappointing Parmigiana di melanzane -- two thick discs of eggplant sandwiching gooey cheese and red sauce – that tasted mostly of oil
• Monkfish as grisly as an old steak
• An absence of a printed wine by the glass list

Speak up!

Average rating based on 2 reviews.

4

What you said

1

cynergi2000

4

Posted on Fri, 03.12.2010 @ 10:04

I'm shocked by the review. Barolo is one of South Beach's best restaurants. To give it two stars is INSANE. Chef Lindsay spices her food masterfully. The squid ink taglietelli with crab and garlic was my favorite, slightly spicy and perfectly al dente. The Roman style artichokes, fried in olive oil with a sweet lemon dressing, bone-in strip grilled with bone marrow sauce and port wine onions and the roasted pumpkin with capers and parmesan were all OUTSTANDING. For dessert, the sticky toffee was mouth watering. I am in no way, shape or form affiliated with Barolo. Try it for yourself. Do not buy into Victoria Pesce Elliot's unfair review. ... Read more

3

miaonthebeach

4

Posted on Wed, 03.10.2010 @ 23:30

The one thing I must say is that I totally don"t agree with this review. I have been to Barolo only a hand full of times but the black squid ink pasta is my fav pasta on Sobe!!!! Also the prices are great, go to the Setai or Shore Club to see "real"South Beach prices. I love the quiet location and great decor of this Sofi secret.Also dessert was too die for homemade ice cream!!! As for the waiters what can be inappropriately friendly??? I often am ignored but waiters and often regret paying the included tip. Not here. The only thing uneven is the miami.com review .. ... Read more

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