2008 Art Basel: where to eat

 

Perusing all that art can certainly make you work up an appetite. Here are a few places where you can refuel and relax.

CHIC BAR
The Design District's Fratelli Lyon features an all-Italian wine list. Photo: Ronna Gradus.
 

By Sara Liss

Perusing all that art can certainly make you work up an appetite. Luckily, Miami has no shortage of stellar restaurants that offer visual and belly-filling appeal. Here are a few places where you can refuel and relax after long days spent gallery and fair-hopping.

ON THE BEACH

Blue Door
1685 Collins Ave.; 305-674-6400

This is home base for Art Basel VIP card holders and art-world fixtures. The Philippe Starck-designed restaurant still boasts an Alice in Wonderland charm despite opening more than a decade ago. If you're lucky enough to score a table on the outdoor patio, savor an evening by feasting on jumbo taro root ravioli, duck and shiitake confit and Brazilian paella.

Meat Market
915 Lincoln Rd.; 305-532-0088

Helmed by chef Sean Brasel (formerly of Touch), this Lincoln Road newcomer is simultaneously a glam steakhouse and a glitzy cocktail destination. Its meat-heavy fare is livened with such creative touches as a crudo bar serving ceviches and tartares. Buffalo quail legs and blackened mahi mahi share space with pampered Japanese A5 Kobe and Harris Ranch steaks, while glowing Lucite ceiling panels, cream leather benches and a wine wall add to the drama.

Loftin's 1116 Ocean
1116 Ocean Dr.; 305-672-6604

Evening adventures don't get more glamorous than suppers at Casa Casuarina, aka Versace's former mansion. The boutique hotel that has hosted Madonna, Elton John and other celebs has opened its restaurant to the public, allowing curious plebeians a chance to glimpse the luxe grounds. Seating is mostly outdoors; candlelit tables on the front terrace provide a romantic escape from the Ocean Drive fray. Tuck into such upscale Mediterranean fare as filet tartare, Tokyo-grade tuna and house-made fettuccine with chantarelles and shards of black truffle.

DESIGN DISTRICT

Pacific Time
35 NE 40th St.; 305-722-7369

Named one of "The Best New Restaurants of 2008'' by Esquire, chef Jonathan Eismann's popular Pacific Time has been satiating Design District regulars since it moved to the neighborhood earlier this year. Expect Eismann's trademark Asian-inflected cuisine in the miso-rubbed chicken salad and Peking-style duck, along with rustic American dishes such as roasted leg of Colorado lamb with mango. The bustling, open kitchen and 1960s-era, Verner Panton-designed hanging fixtures give the airy space a sophisticated feel. A bargain-priced wine list adds to the attractive features.

Fratelli Lyon
4141 NE Second Ave.; 305-572-2901

The chicest kid on the block, chef Ken Lyon's glass-enclosed, artisanal Italian eatery is located in the sleek Driade furniture showroom. With an emphasis on pristine ingredients from small farms and purveyors, the restaurant features clean, uncluttered cuisine served under soaring ceilings and in the company of orange wire placemats, stainless steel shelves and a lipstick-red retro meat slicer. Platters of antipasti with eight varieties of salumi are perfect for sharing after a long day of gallery hopping. The all-Italian wine list features 60 quaffs perfect for pairing with the light, colorful fare. If you're looking for splurge, from Dec. 3-6, the restaurant will celebrate Art Basel with a five-course, $325 tasting menu featuring white truffles from Alba, Piemonte, and black winter truffles.

Brosia
163 NE 39th St.; 305-572-1400

Take advantage of Miami's blissfully temperate "winter" and snag a table on Brosia's expansive outdoor patio, one of the most striking al fresco spots in the neighborhood. Shaded by oak trees and offset by an ocean-colored mosaic tile wall, the restaurant provides a gorgeous backdrop for a menu of classic Mediterranean cuisine. Share a pitcher of sangria, and sample dishes such as lamb skewers with cucumber-yogurt sauce and Moroccan steamed mussels in a coconut curry broth. A sunny weekend brunch draws Design District regulars who linger over Spanish omelets and caramelized apple French toast with vanilla cognac sauce.

Michael's GenuineFood and Drink
130 NE 40th St.; 305-573-5550

A favorite with scruffy artists, graying art dealers and everyone in between, chef Michael Schwartz's pioneering District spot continues to draw raves as it settles into its second year. The creative American cuisine, much of it from local organic farms, has attracted national attention for its unpretentious yet elegant qualities. Such dishes as chicken-liver crostini, pork belly with watermelon salad and crispy beef cheeks consistently pack the tables in the Atlas Plaza courtyard. Reservations are notoriously hard to snag, so make sure to book in advance, or befriend a Miami maven or two.

MIMO DISTRICT

Michy's
6927 Biscayne Blvd.; 305-759-2001

Helmed by James Beard-award winner and local celebrity chef Michelle Bernstein, the high-end haunt is a neighborhood spot with world-class cooking. Menu selections can be ordered as full or half portions, allowing diners to graze among a sea of carefully crafted salad, seafood and pasta dishes. A nice selection of wines available by the glass adds to the casual, choose-as-you-go dining odyssey. The truffle-infused polenta topped with a poached egg and bacon is a rich and decadent hit.

Red Light
7700 Biscayne Blvd.; 305-757-7773

This funky spot at the once seedy, now slightly gentrified Motel Blu attracts food fiends despite its rough-and-tumble location. Chef Kris Wessel brings his New Orleans roots to eclectic Florida regional cooking, with an emphasis on organic or local seafood and produce. Dishes such as five-hour braised rabbit, barbecued oysters and coconut-laced fish chowder go well with the selection of local beers. The indoor dining room features retro light fixtures, cream yellow booths and large picture windows framing views of the boulevard. There's also outdoor seating available on the rejuvenated Little River, a sweet spot now that the humidity has lifted.

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I recently visited Michael's Genuine Food & Drink for the first time and for my 40th birthday. To read my entire experience, visit blog Fabulous Florida at http://fabflorida.blogspot.com and search on the right toolbar for "Restaurant Reviews" and click on the restaurant. From 1-5 rating, I gave it a 4. Enjoy Art Basel!... Read more
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