As we begin the countdown to the Summer Olympics, it's time to take note of a worthy new Greek contender in the Miami dining arena. After all, it was Coroebus, a humble cook from Elis, who sprinted to victory in the first recorded Olympic Games back in 776 B.C.

Fast forward a few millennia to an Aegean-blue corner building in Miami Beach's Normandy Isles neighborhood, the same site where Ouzo's enjoyed a successful run before moving to South Beach. If that fun-loving hot spot was dedicated to hedonistic pleasures of all kinds, this low-key newcomer takes food and wine to a higher level.

Athanasios Barlos and Michelle Shimon, co-owners of Ariston Greek European Cuisine, insist on authenticity, and achieve it with the help of Greek-born chef Alexia Apostolidi. Yes, weekend nights sometimes finds a talented belly dancer shimmying her way through the closely packed tables, but it is the smell of spit-roasted lamb laden with rosemary that lures passersby inside.

Barlos, who briefly owned and operated Elia in Bal Harbour, seems to have hit on a better formula here. Instead of Greek-inspired haute cuisine he has stuck to well-executed, comfort-food basics.

A deep bowl of tangy lemon avgolemono soup thick with puréed rice is an enticing way to start, though dips, including an earthy hummus and a briny taramasalata (fish roe dip), and the sizzling saganaki cheese plate are equally recommendable.

Lamb any way you can order it is a star here, from succulent lemon- and rosemary-bathed shank slow-cooked over a spit to the exquisite seared chop alongside peppery lemon potatoes and roasted vegetables.

So, too, shrimp. We sampled prawns the size of my fists doped up with more tomato, garlic and oil than should be legal. The charred shells slipped off like robes to the floor before a bath.

Divine coins of orange-scented sausage and skewers of blackened but tender chicken breast are options in an unbeatable summer special that lets a couple sample more than a dozen menu items and enjoy a bottle wine for 40 bucks. We had a perfectly drinkable 2006 French Laboure-Roi Cabernet, which the waiter took time to chill a bit before pouring it to us on a steamy July night.

The eclectic, decently priced wine list offers an impressive selection from the world's top wine-producing regions plus medal-worthy Greek bottles and some off-beat entrants from Lebanon and South Africa.

While you enjoy the low-key vibe and piped-in Greek tunes beneath the gently swirling ceiling fans, the attentive owner roams the room with an eye out for service glitches and embraces for the many who appear to be regulars.

Had he been more focused on newcomers, he would have noticed that water refills and plate-clearing lagged at our table. Still, we were happily licking our fingers from salty fried smelt, divine calamari and a selection of moist and flaky meat and spinach pies.

Salads -- including a chunky Greek loaded with cucumbers, deep red tomatoes, spicy onion and oily olives liberally doused with pungent oregano -- are nearly perfect, and big enough to share. A side of wild greens simply sautéed is equally satisfying.

The only culinary slip-ups were an overly cheesy moussaka and a less-than-great grilled octopus platter.

Desserts include divinely honey-drenched, nut-studded squares of baklava and cinnamony hunks of walnut cake.

Ariston is derived from the Greek aristos, meaning "the best, " and it just might be.