Alberto Cabrera's Bread + Butter brings modern Cuban classics to the Gables

Sara Liss2/10/2013

The Goods: Chef Alberto Cabrera (The Local) helms Bread + Butter, a casual spot for modern Cuban food in Coral Gables.
The Ambience: The bright and airy neo-industrial space is outfitted with exposed ceilings, rustic wood tables, steel chairs and a 22-seat counter adorned with homemade butters and jams.

The Grub: Modern Cuban classics served as $5-$14 small plates. Playful dishes include the namesake pan con mantequilla, bread baked in a cast-iron ramekin and served on a wooden board; "crackling of the day;" and the China frita, a burger with Napa cabbage kimchi, cilantro, onion and siracha ketchup. Other options include tamal en casuela (pictured), a hearty bowl of smoked oxtail ragu with a Lake Meadow egg and toasted garlic; pan con lechon with a bao bun, mojo criollo and pickled garlic; bacon-wrapped plantains; and bone marrow ropa vieja.

Lighter dishes include crudo de pescado with wahoo, watermelon, avocado, corn nuts, coriander and sour orange. Sate a sweet tooth with goat cheese flan and classic dulce de leche.

The Verdict: Cuban soul food in a stylish, neo-industrial space.