5 Napkin Burger

Sara Liss6/28/2011

The goods: 5 Napkin Burger brings towering burgers with a big city pedigree to Lincoln Road, the the fifth location for the Manhattan-based chain and its first in South Florida.

Ambience: The corner spot’s large windows let natural light into the spacious, 125-seat dining room, arguably the largest indoor restaurant on Lincoln Road. There’s an old timey feel to the place with walls clad in white subway tiles and a ceiling outfitted with ironwork, Edison filament bulbs and meat hooks. All the hard surfaces make it loud  – expect to shout at your tablemates on crowded nights.

The grub: American classics including burgers, lobster rolls, milkshakes and, well … sushi. Prices are moderate with burgers averaging $11, sushi rolls $13, mains under $20 and sides about $4. A full bar stocks 50 wines, 80 beers, 10 signature cocktails and 40 bourbons. Executive Chef Andy D’Amico created the namesake burger, 10 ounces of freshly ground chuck topped with rosemary aioli, caramelized onions and melted Gruyere on a soft white roll. Other  burgers include the Italian turkey, veggie, ahi tuna and lamb kofta.

Start things off with deep-fried pickles and pastrami paired with cornmeal-crusted onion rings. Sushi includes spicy tuna and salmon rolls, though you’ll probably want to focus on the belly-filling patties and crisp fries (French, Tuscan and sweet potato). Mains include beer-battered fish and chips, French bistro-style steak frites and an all-beef hotdog. Milkshakes range from classics like chocolate and vanilla to newfangled versions like salted caramel and peanut butter.

Verdict: The haute burger craze continues with the opening of this upscale diner.