3 stars for seafood-heavy eats at Edge, Steak & Bar at the Four Seasons Miami

 

3 stars for seafood-heavy eats at Edge, Steak & Bar at the Four Seasons Miami

Edge cowgirl chop
Photo by Andres Aravena
 

Victoria Pesce Elliott

Edge, Steak & Bar at the ever-elegant Four Seasons has done everything it can to dispel that fancy-hotel vibe of stuffy inaccessibility and make itself welcoming, especially to locals. Hotel executive chef Aaron Brooks and restaurant chef James King have created an eclectic, flesh-centric menu that ranges from staples like jumbo shrimp and stone crab claws to pork belly and pan-seared duck with figs.

Ambience: White-washed oak nooks are upholstered in almond-colored leather, and rugged planked flooring is balanced by ivory Venetian plaster walls that sparkle with industrial brass and glass lights. A lively marble bar and solicitous staff add to the seventh-floor space’s warm atmosphere.

What Worked

  • Barbecue-dusted potato chips
  • Addictive french fries
  • Warm, golden-crusted rolls
  • Red-tinged chorizo and Cheddar croquetas with a light and spicy romesco sauce
  • A lobster corn soup chunky with toothsome lobster
  • A "gorgeous" Caesar salad made with Swank Farms greens
  • A particularly impressive raw starter: corvina with green apple; standout tuna with pickled shallots, crunchy jicama threads & a sweet zap of watermelon; Angus tenderloin studded with mustard seeds & croutons and tender, show-stealing sliced scallop marinated in a gingery bath with grapefruit and baby basil
  • Signature corvina as pretty as a Renoir with jade-green pesto, rainbow of baby heirloom tomatoes and ribbons of zucchini
  • Fish and chips with house-made tartar sauce and crispy purple cabbage slaw
  • An eight-ounce burger of Creekstone beef with sharp Vermont Cheddar and house-made pickles
  • A tender, flavorful 6oz prime Boston-cut strip 
  • A juicy, well-seasoned 24oz bone-in Tomahawk
  • A thoughtfully composed, moderately priced wine list that spans the globe with more than 100 selections arranged by flavor profile
  • A tapas-size dessert trio (available at lunch) - brownie, warm berry crumble and deconstructed Key lime pie with a wonderfully mouth-puckering tang balanced by a puff of sweet cream and coconut

 

What Didn't Work

  • A too-heavily spiced lobster roll on a gorgeously griddled bun
  • Ping-pong-ball size cheesecake pops

 

 

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