3 stars for Brickell’s Perfecto Gastrobar a fun, flavorful Barcelona import

 

OK, maybe not quite perfect, but Perfecto Gastrobar is awfully fun, and the food is delicious.

perfecto

Victoria Pesce Elliott

OK, maybe not quite perfect, but Perfecto Gastrobar is awfully fun, and the food is delicious. It’s the first Miami venture for Oscar Manresa, a well-known restaurateur from Barcelona who brings the same energy and quality to Brickell Avenue.

The menu is stocked with quality products like glistening anchovies, both plump, pickled boquerones and cured ones from the Cantabrian Sea; knobby fuet, the hard, dry-cured, salami-like Catalan sausage; an array of Spanish cheeses and the elite Cinco Jotas (5Js) bellota jamon Iberico. Manresa has also brought front- and back-of-the-house talent from home. The young, friendly, bilingual waiters and bartenders are quick with a recommendation, a joke and always a smile.

Ambience: Guests walk under a red marquee into a world that feels as happy and welcoming as an air-conditioned movie theater on an August afternoon. The industrial-chic space with soaring ceilings is filled with aromas of spices and meats from the open kitchen and the sounds of lively dance remixes spun by staff DJ Ferran Lozano, one of many Catalan imports contributing to the authentically Spanish feel. The wide-open terrace with cozy sofas and the rustic, wood-accented interior amplify the effect. Beginning at noon, a steady flow of suits arrive for lunch specials for under $20. Then, it’s happy hour (four of them, actually), with buy-one-get-ones and lots of tapas specials from 4 to 8 o’clock.

What Worked

  • Delectable chicken croquettas, perfect orbs with a feathery dusting of breadcrumbs and a tiny dollop of aioli to lend even more richness
  • Patatas bravas - perfect little bronzed cubes covered in spicy chile and the same creamy aioli
  • Equally iconic pan con tomate
  • Chunks of juicy watermelon infused with sangria and mojito-injected melons
  • Salmon and tuna tartare served in tiny, crunchy cones like a scoop of ice cream are also popular, gently seasoned and very fresh
  • Avocado cannelloni - layers of ripe avocado overlapped over a mound of briny lump crab meat subtly hit with fresh ginger
  • Thumb-thick octopus chunks served over discs of gently roasted potatoes
  • A well-curated, Spanish-centric wine list that runs the gamut from a young $27 verdejo and lots of $30-something reds all the way up to a hard-to-find 1998 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° that rivals some of France’s best Bordeaux
  • Three generous versions of paella made for sharing
  • A decent version of arroz negro- inky black, salty, dense rice loaded with tender baby squid
  • Cochinillo crujiente - crispy suckling pig done in the traditional Catalan style
  • Ganache de chocolate - a fluffy, almost mousse-like version with salty, see-through sheets of toast
  • Pineapple and mango ravioli floating in a lychee soup with coconut ice cream

 

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