3 stars for American standards at Foxy Brown in Fort Lauderdale

 

3 stars for American standards at Foxy Brown in Fort Lauderdale

foxy_brown

Rochelle Koff

For years, this small storefront on Broward Boulevard in downtown Fort Lauderdale has been a big disappointment. Potential businesses have put up signs but failed to open. Until Foxy Brown moved in. The restaurant is actually named for a friend’s dog, says Elliot Wolf, who has transformed the lackluster building into a low-key but attractive space. Wolf and Merv Jonata own popular Coconuts on the Intracoastal and its new next-door sibling, G&B Oyster House. It takes confidence to open two new restaurants within six months.

Chef Christian Clausen (Teal, Mark’s) turns out American standards and comfort food with flair. The menu is the same at lunch and dinner, with salads, sandwiches, burgers and eight entrees plus a few specials. You can also stop by for dishes like crab cake Benedict, hanger steak hash and banana-bread grilled cheese at Sunday brunch. Foxy Brown is already generating buzz from locals of all ages who are filling the 40-seat venue (with a few tables out back) even on usually slow weeknights, when patrons can take advantage of wine discounts.

Ambience: Given its plain exterior plus the sassy moniker it shares with a ’70s blaxploitation film and a raunchy rapper, I wondered if it was going to be something a little more, well, adult. But this Foxy Brown is a G-rated experience, complete with milkshakes and a motto of “Be Nice.”

What Worked

  • Deviled ham made with house-cured ham and plated with a scoop of Cheddar cheese spread spiked with Bell’s Stout, grainy mustard and warm mini loafs of pretzel bread
  • On tap Capt’n Eli’s Root Beer
  • French onion soup topped with bubbly provolone, Parmesan and Gruyère cheeses
  • Delicious tempura-style green beans served with sriracha-spiked aiol
  • Clams, brats and beer: Littlenecks in a broth spiked with Brooklyn Lager and chunks of house-made bratwurst served with two large wedges of grilled bread
  • Bangers and smash: English-style sausage and fried fingerling potatoes mixed with arugula, roasted tomatoes and crisp onions
  • Perfectly cooked tender hanger steak served with a refreshing salad of baby arugula, roasted tomatoes and herb vinaigrette
  • Flavorful chicken thighs plated atop a mound of spaetzle in tasty pan gravy
  • Top notch pan-seared scallopsserved with spinach and a cauliflower mash with a hint of truffle oil
  • Fish en papillote baked in parchment paper with potatoes, tomatoes, onions and a splash of lemon
  • Warm towels offered between courses A young, friendly staff quick to fill water and wine glasses and keep the meal well-paced
  • Rich chocolate beer pudding
  • White chocolate chip bread pudding

 

What Didn't Work

  • "Nothing special" retro roasted artichokes
  • Strawberry shortcake with overbaked biscuits

 

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