2 stars for South Miami's Buns & Buns

 

Buns & Buns is overstuffed with options

buns

Jodi Mailander Farrell

We’ll root for any restaurant that gets bold with its bread and boasts a menu that reads like a world map. On many levels, Buns & Buns in South Miami shows promise as a big leaguer. But in its attempt to be too clever, the eatery befuddles. We were even ready to embrace the fast-casual concept, with a menu organized by a handful of affordable price points.

Customers order at the counter then sit down to have the wait staff deliver the goods to the table, with food flying out of the kitchen rapid-fire, in time with the ’80s tunes beating out of the sound system. Even the staff seems a little confused about the concept and layout. At least three different servers or runners delivered food at different intervals, including some plates that were supposed to go to other tables.

Ambience: With its white brick walls, large windows and wood-block tables, B&B has a comfy, fun vibe. Its young wait staff, although inexperienced, exudes genuine friendliness.

What Worked

  • Buns & Buns’ creative & fresh buns and breads
  • Steamy cheese naan
  • Brioche
  • Focaccia with roasted peppers
  • Salads that beyond the tired norm: Watercress, Napa cabbage, Swiss chard, tomato and watermelon that will make you wonder why you ever wasted your time with Caesar
  • A light cobia with a miso glaze
  • Roasted golden beets in vinegar and sea salt that are sweet, slightly firm and sizzling with flavor
  • Bread pudding
  • Hot chocolate buns doused in sweet cream

 

What Didn't Work

  • Fatty lamb ribs with bones make tooth-cracking stuffers
  • Fried snapper in an overwhelming beer batter that's too heavy to eat with bread
  • Chinese-inspired buns with flat & heavy dough that leaves little room for stuffing
  • A menu that promises diverse global inspirations, but delivers several dishes that mimic the same heavy-handed, sweet-spicy theme, with no subtly or finesse
  • And while over-the-counter ordering promises speedier service, the logistics of waiting to pay the bill until the end with a nontraditional wait staff can drag the meal on … and on. We had a hard time on our visits just catching the eye of a server so we could pay and leave our table of empty plates

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